Currently working on a Mori Seiki NT5400DCG. Was wondering what is causing this alarm, went round the back of the machine to take the tool out and now Im getting this message everytime I try to get the carouse to select another tool?
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EX4269- T Commanded while tool set-up
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Blum Probe setting work offsets in cycle
Machine: Hyundai Wia KF5600 Fanuc Oi control
Blum TC 62 probe
I am new to probing still. Feel free critique anything.
This is my code, I am sometimes getting an unexpected obstacle error when running the probe cycle. It will work fine for a couple parts. Then it will either error before the protected move or after protected move, before tramming X. Sometimes it will error, just once, or 3 4 times. And then work. I just hit reset, restart program and try again and it will work.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks
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<0001>G0G90G54
T30M6
T23
G54
G0X.2Y.5
G4X1
H30
M194
G65P9703A1.X0.Y.25Z.5 (protected move)
M194
G65P9700S3.5X1.Z-2.W54R1. (tram x)
M194
G65P9700Z-.5W54 (touch z on feature)
#5223=[#5223-2.22]
G91G28Z0.0
M98P7210
G91G28Z0
#5223=[#5223+2.22]
G54.1P1G0G90X-17.6969Y0A0.
M30
%
Blum TC 62 probe
I am new to probing still. Feel free critique anything.
This is my code, I am sometimes getting an unexpected obstacle error when running the probe cycle. It will work fine for a couple parts. Then it will either error before the protected move or after protected move, before tramming X. Sometimes it will error, just once, or 3 4 times. And then work. I just hit reset, restart program and try again and it will work.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks
%
<0001>G0G90G54
T30M6
T23
G54
G0X.2Y.5
G4X1
H30
M194
G65P9703A1.X0.Y.25Z.5 (protected move)
M194
G65P9700S3.5X1.Z-2.W54R1. (tram x)
M194
G65P9700Z-.5W54 (touch z on feature)
#5223=[#5223-2.22]
G91G28Z0.0
M98P7210
G91G28Z0
#5223=[#5223+2.22]
G54.1P1G0G90X-17.6969Y0A0.
M30
%
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Citizen A20 (2015) No Z offsets
Not sure if this is an option we just don't have with the machine or if there is a parameter I can turn on to get Z offsets.
Currently just using a G50 W Shift to get the tools in the right spot as a workaround.
This is only an issue with the endworking tools (T11-T14, and T31-34)
The book shows how to set the tools, but I don't have the soft key options the book shows.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Currently just using a G50 W Shift to get the tools in the right spot as a workaround.
This is only an issue with the endworking tools (T11-T14, and T31-34)
The book shows how to set the tools, but I don't have the soft key options the book shows.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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New Machine Day... Speedio!
I've been a PM member for probably 10-15 years (reading longer than that) and I've had a few machines over the years... but I haven't gotten any new CNC equipment since 2007 when I got my lathe.
Until this week....
Out with the old... I will miss her. She has literally made millions of dollars worth of parts and cost me less than 1% of that in what I paid for the machine and paid for maintenance over the past 15 years. The good news is she's had an easy life, I got her from a shop that cut only plastic and I cut 99.9% plastic and aluminum. Now she's headed from New England over to Missouri to a tool and die shop with several other Leadwells.
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Until this week....
Out with the old... I will miss her. She has literally made millions of dollars worth of parts and cost me less than 1% of that in what I paid for the machine and paid for maintenance over the past 15 years. The good news is she's had an easy life, I got her from a shop that cut only plastic and I cut 99.9% plastic and aluminum. Now she's headed from New England over to Missouri to a tool and die shop with several other Leadwells.
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Need Help
I just broke my mill end that I use the most. It is a 10 mm "0" flute solid carbide bit. I have a Pertici MC700 and this is the bit that they provided for me. The only problem is that I can't seem to find a bit like it on the internet and I don't want to go through Pertici because it's going to cost a fortune to replace so if anyone know where to find a bit like this please let me know.
Thank You!
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Tooling to reliably drill Tubing
I have a family of parts that I am moving from hand drilling into the CNC now that I have one. This is saving me a ton of time but I need to figure out reliable tooling to drill the holes all the way through both sides of the tubing in one setup. I have about 500 holes at a time to put through DOM tubing.
Hole diameter is 7/16", tubing is 1.5"x.095" and 1.25"x.120".
Right now I am using one of the Maritool reduced neck endmills because I had it on hand. It works but it really sucks, I'm at 6 minutes for 4 holes doing a helical interpolation, any faster and it starts getting unhappy quick. I am going to get new tooling to do this and want to get the right choice. I am thinking of using a regular drill around 3/8" diameter to punch all the way through, then using the long end mill to open the bores up. That should speed things way up and take care of the drill burr inside.
I've also looked at flat-bottom drills as those seem ideal for the top hole on the tube, but I'm concerned with process reliability once it gets to that bottom hole. Is the thin 'plug' that drops through the drilled hole going to be an issue when the drill gets down to the second hole?
I want process reliability more than anything.
Flat bottom drills?
Annular cutters?
Plunge with end mill?
Keep the helical interpolation with endmill?
Drill with normal drill and then clean up with an end mill?
Hole diameter is 7/16", tubing is 1.5"x.095" and 1.25"x.120".
Right now I am using one of the Maritool reduced neck endmills because I had it on hand. It works but it really sucks, I'm at 6 minutes for 4 holes doing a helical interpolation, any faster and it starts getting unhappy quick. I am going to get new tooling to do this and want to get the right choice. I am thinking of using a regular drill around 3/8" diameter to punch all the way through, then using the long end mill to open the bores up. That should speed things way up and take care of the drill burr inside.
I've also looked at flat-bottom drills as those seem ideal for the top hole on the tube, but I'm concerned with process reliability once it gets to that bottom hole. Is the thin 'plug' that drops through the drilled hole going to be an issue when the drill gets down to the second hole?
I want process reliability more than anything.
Flat bottom drills?
Annular cutters?
Plunge with end mill?
Keep the helical interpolation with endmill?
Drill with normal drill and then clean up with an end mill?
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Vander Ziel Machinery.....reputable establishment?
As the title says.............good place? Located just east of Grand Rapids MI..............They say they only sell machines that they own and are on their floor. Anyone buy from them? TIA......................
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Chip build up in chuck
We have a bar feeder on a CNC lathe utilizing a chuck. We have damage 2 draw tubes in the last year and the manufacture is telling us that this is due to a build up of chips in the chuck. Since this is a bar feed I can not clean these chips out after every part as we do on all of our other machines so what can we do. The chuck manufacturer told me to put a rubber stop (with a hole for the material) into the through hole but how do I hole it in. What have others done?:scratchchin:
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Romi C420 Parameters
I have a Romi C420 lathe with the Siemens 802D sl Sinumerik controler, and I'm trying to find the parameter for changing the retract distance in the boring cycle as well as other tools. The setting now is 1mm. In fact all of the tools appear to retract 1mm. This retract distance is when I use the conversational control programming. The parameters from several manuals that I downloaded don't seem to match my controller. I'm not having any luck getting information from Romi or Siemens. It seems that getting customer support from either company is like pulling teeth.
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Looking for realtime video training on CNC Lathe with live tooling
I am looking for someone part time to provide training and support to me via facetime. Mainly entering programs, setting up machine, and first article.
Willing to pay fair rate.
Need experience with; live tooling, sub-spindle, and Fanuc controls.
Any suggestions on how to find someone for this? Is there an online program that offers this commercially with 24 hour support?
Willing to pay fair rate.
Need experience with; live tooling, sub-spindle, and Fanuc controls.
Any suggestions on how to find someone for this? Is there an online program that offers this commercially with 24 hour support?
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Newby - Jeweler looking for someone to machine tantalum rings
I'm new here and not a machinist. I am a jeweler and jewelry designer.
I am looking for someone who can machine some tantalum rings for me.
Initially it would just be a few samples so I can test customer feedback.
Then, hopefully they start selling and we can place more orders.
I'm hoping to find a shop that would be cool with making small quantities.
Please ping me if you are interested, or know someone who would be.
Thank you!
Ron
I am looking for someone who can machine some tantalum rings for me.
Initially it would just be a few samples so I can test customer feedback.
Then, hopefully they start selling and we can place more orders.
I'm hoping to find a shop that would be cool with making small quantities.
Please ping me if you are interested, or know someone who would be.
Thank you!
Ron
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leblond makino fnc 74 2003 thermal tripped alarm
We are having issues with getting these new used machines online. we bought 2 fnc 74 machines one has 2003 thermal tripped alarm. I Have checked everything now blown fuses or tripped breakers. The spindle was blocked on a 4x4 for transport is it possible they put to much pressure on the spindle and i will need to back it off manually? I'm not familiar with this machine the problem started when they were breaking the machine down. This machine has an om controller and its an 89.
Thanks for any help Scott
Thanks for any help Scott
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Programming safety switches
So I am programming a MultiCam 3000 series. This for a production. My program has a stop half way thru so you can tilt the fixture down and cut out a hole. Well my boss wants me to put a switch on the fixture and program it so second part of the program will not run unless the switch is activated. If anyone has any ideas on how to do that would be awesome
Thanks,
Jake Novotny
Thanks,
Jake Novotny
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Type of thread for vise
Hi folks, could wait for tomorrow but...
Precisionsskruvstycke GT 150x200 mm - Skruvstycken - Modell GT - Skruvstycken - Frasning - Braverktyg.se
Does anyone know what thread type the big screw is? It's around 24mm diameter if I recall right.
I really cant find the info on the manufacturer webpage and I mean I think this is standard.
Precisionsskruvstycke GT 150x200 mm - Skruvstycken - Modell GT - Skruvstycken - Frasning - Braverktyg.se
Does anyone know what thread type the big screw is? It's around 24mm diameter if I recall right.
I really cant find the info on the manufacturer webpage and I mean I think this is standard.
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Enormous HSS end mills; best way to use them?
Hi,
I have a few parts to make with deep side walls without step down lines. I have mainly been using 3/4 3 flute ZrN carbide endmills in side locks, and I also have a 1x3" 3 flute ZrN finisher which is now chipped mid-flute. I bought a huge HSS endmill with 6 flutes, it has a 1-1/4 shank diameter with flats and a 1.5" cutting diameter with a 6" LOC. I'll be holding it in a Maritool 1-1/4 dual contact sidelock in a CAT40 VMC. Total gauge length with be around 8.5 inches I think.
What range of cutting speeds, feeds, WOCs and DOCs should I be looking at for a tool like this? Some of my parts have 3, 4, and 6 inch side walls that I want flat and square. If I can get these side walls done in the first operation, I can use them as reference surfaces to hold them in the vises for the remaining operations on other sides. If they aren't square they may not be stable to hold in the vises, and I don't want a part to move in the vise jaws when I'm taking heavy cuts.
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I have a few parts to make with deep side walls without step down lines. I have mainly been using 3/4 3 flute ZrN carbide endmills in side locks, and I also have a 1x3" 3 flute ZrN finisher which is now chipped mid-flute. I bought a huge HSS endmill with 6 flutes, it has a 1-1/4 shank diameter with flats and a 1.5" cutting diameter with a 6" LOC. I'll be holding it in a Maritool 1-1/4 dual contact sidelock in a CAT40 VMC. Total gauge length with be around 8.5 inches I think.
What range of cutting speeds, feeds, WOCs and DOCs should I be looking at for a tool like this? Some of my parts have 3, 4, and 6 inch side walls that I want flat and square. If I can get these side walls done in the first operation, I can use them as reference surfaces to hold them in the vises for the remaining operations on other sides. If they aren't square they may not be stable to hold in the vises, and I don't want a part to move in the vise jaws when I'm taking heavy cuts.
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Tool Balancing - When do you use it? Is it worth it?
I'm interested in hearing your opinions on tool balancing:
Where do you use it?
At what spindle RPM's does it become beneficial, necessary?
When do you not use it, such as under certain spindle RPM's where benefit does not justify cost?
Where do you use it?
At what spindle RPM's does it become beneficial, necessary?
When do you not use it, such as under certain spindle RPM's where benefit does not justify cost?
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Collets V Chucks
I have just started working in the robotics industry and I was wondering if collets or chucks are best for reliability? Which is best for reducing run out for example?
ER collets have more points of contact, meaning more flexibility.
But if 3 jaw chucks are more stable, does that mean they're more reliable and reduce run out?
ER collets have more points of contact, meaning more flexibility.
But if 3 jaw chucks are more stable, does that mean they're more reliable and reduce run out?
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Opinions on Reamers
We have a customer wanting size 8.8mm spiral reamers.
Does anyone know the difference between YG-1 reamers and dormer brand reamers please?
Does anyone know the difference between YG-1 reamers and dormer brand reamers please?
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Insert drilling, off center?
I noticed something about doing this with insert drills in a recent thread but I ain't too clear on it as I never tired it myself yet but, can you actually drill with a bit of an X offset to get a bigger hole (lathe operation) with Insert drills? I know you can rough bore with them a bit, but say you got a .750" nominal drill (korloy or sandvik) and want a .790" hole in one shot with it, without boring it out, could it? seems like it wouldn't have much room to offset before the center insert gets chipped if its not pretty well on center?
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General Tips For Reducing Run Out
What are your general top tips for avoiding run out please?
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