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Yet another nightmare with the fadal..

January 6, 2018, 3:42 pm
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Hey guys! I'm having some issues with my fadal and I was wondering if anyone could possibly give me some insight or advice. Hopefully Bob or some of the other fadal gurus will chime in.

1992 402028HT
Owned 6 years.
Since ownership I've replaced the keyboard, CRT monitor with LCD, x axis servo motor, 2 amplifier cards, installed calmotion, turret motor, 1030 card (hoping it would fix my DNC issues), probably 3 resolvers, and last month I added a 128kb expanded memory board.

Machine is properly grounded to fadals spec.

For the last 6 months or so, I would leave the machine at idle for hours to come back to a emergency stop condition. Sometimes it would kick the lowest breaker in the side cabinet (I'm not sure what its proper name is). Typically an amplifier fault on whatever axis was currently activated to jog. This wasn't very common until a couple of days ago when all hell broke loose...

This started with many random emergency stops. Sometimes while jogging, sometimes while running a program, and other times while idling. Axis's were also randomly running away (all 3 tried by the end of it). Yesterday no run away issues, but tons of emergency stops.

C axis controller does not respond to NC
C spindle driver fault
C position limit
X servo amplifier fault
Y servo amplifier fault
Z servo amplier fault

Here of a lists of tests I've preformed:

Checking the J2 resolver feedback cable all 3 axis's show 1.3 VAC. Fadal states 1.7 VAC with a strict +/-

Checking the +12v, -12v, and +5v to ground on the 1220-3a board
-12 supply = -12.1VDC
+12 supply = 12.06 VDC
+5 supply = 5.02 VDC

Fadal states to check for AC ripple on the DC voltages and if any is present to replace the power supply.
-12 supply = 0 VAC
+12 suppy = 25.7 VAC
+5 supply = 10.2 VAC

A fadal tech asked me to check the two figures below which were both within his specs:

Checking resistance from #3 to #4 on the amplifier cards
x = 58.2
y = 56.4
z = 61.6

Checking resistance from brown to white on the amplifer cards
x = 1.0
y = .8
z = .8

I've had flickering issues with the LCD monitor for a couple years along with very frustrating issues drip feeding. Random "error during DNC". I am curious as to if there is a common culprit for all of these problems.

I guess I'm here to ask others opinions on the above information. Would you recommend I check anything else? Is it time for a power supply? Thoughts on whether these issues are related? Could AC ripple cause low VAC feedback on the resolvers? I appreciate any information or thoughts!

Thanks,
Andrew
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Bad Finishes

January 6, 2018, 3:55 pm
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So I have a Supermax YMC-40 Mill running Analaim Crusader II control.

If I cut signal X axis I can get good finish if I cut signal Y axis same outcome good finish if I go to cut x and y at same time the finish get very choppy. And changing feeds and speeds slower does not affect the finish the chop marks are still there if I go faster they just appear worse.

Metal: 6061 T6
Cutter: 3/8 3 flute
RPM 3000
Feed 28. IPM

Any chance that the PID settings can effect this in how the x and y may be fighting one another??
Any help would be great.
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Anyone try the new Trak KMX control upgrade?

January 6, 2018, 5:20 pm
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I'm about fed up with the AGE3 control on my Trak bed mill. Looking at yet another pendant and computer replacement for the 2nd time in 2yrs. Holy hell that is a lot of $$$$ adding up! I see SWI has a new control they call a KMX that is designed to replace the older MX and AGE controls and bring them closer to the SMX capability but at half the price. Anyone try one of these KMX controls who can give some feedback?
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Old v new: CNC decision

January 6, 2018, 5:56 pm
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I can get a new tormach pcnc440 in my budget, barely and sort of.
I can get a Grizzly 704 new and convert it to CNC. That is a common conversion.
I can get an old (mid 1980s usually) mill like a bridgeport CNC or Shizuoka st-n. The costs are all within about a thousand dollars or so when all is said and done with conversions and modernizing.

I am poor, literally, but frugal so I have a budget around $4,500 to start. I just finished a year at the local community college learning CNC and I have been an avid 3D printer user for years. As a retiree, the idea is to work up to where I am doing one-off jobs for others and using the equipment to produce my designs, which vary widely.

Old equipment, I can afford a larger build envelope but it is old equipment. Smaller new equipment or take some debt? Maybe start with a larger Grizzly? I have never seen a Haas of any age I could afford. Oh, and I am legally blind so CNC is absolutely required. (Yes, I can. That answers all of the "but can you..." questions.) I've "decided" which route to go a dozen times or more for my first CNC mill.

What would you choose with a budget below $5,000 to start setting up a CNC mill? (Yes, tools and accessories add up to much more over time but I'm looking at start-up and plan to invest more.)No time frame, no solid limits.
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m-plus low on memory

January 6, 2018, 7:10 pm
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So I just took delivery on a new to me 98' Mazak vertical with an M-Plus control. She has a whopping 70 some meters of memory. Has anyone put memory in their controls with success or just drip everything. I have sent some programs DNC but sure would like to load and go. I'm not being greedy here, would be thrilled will 128k for crying out loud. The whole memory thing (lack of) with machine tools seems ridiculous.
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Bridgeport VMC 460 "Wrong tool called" error

January 7, 2018, 1:40 am
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Hi there

I've got a query for somebody knowledgeable, please.

I've just bought an old Bridgeport VMC 460 and yesterday was programming/running it without any issue. Today when i try to run the same programme in single block mode i get the error message "wrong tool called".

i've tried going into manual mode and just running the M6 block alone but get the same message.

i've tried a simple tool change programme but get the same message.

i've looked in the manual (i know!) and it just says i've tried to call a tool that is outside the range of the tool changer but the tool called was No. 1. I've checked programme 0 and the tools are all listed.

i've searched online but can't find anything that seems to exactly address this issue.

i'd be very grateful for any help!

thanks

Simon
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DMU50 3rd Gen. or Hermle C250

January 7, 2018, 6:42 am
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We are planning to purchase a 5-axis milling machine and have 2 options on the table: DMU-50 3rd generation and Hermle C-250. I would appreciate for any advise or feedback.
The DMU-50 3rd generation is a new DMG Mori model since 2017 which is a bit upgraded from earlier version and looks on the paper almost as good as Hermle C-250. Hermle's good reputation is a well known fact, but the C-250 is a new entry level 5-axis machine and is a bit downgraded model from earlier "high-performance" range and are so called "performance" range machines. The Hermles are 10-20% more expensive.
Does anyone has experience with these new models?
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shiny surface speed barrier

January 7, 2018, 7:04 am
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collecting data on milling finish, waviness, tool life, feeds and speeds i get the impression there is a shiny surface speed barrier like breaking the sound barrier with a airplane
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with cast iron at 500 sfpm finish dull but steady
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550 sfpm finish rippled dull to shiny close spaced. like its going into and out of shiny speed barrier
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600 sfpm finish shiny but near edges dull. maybe cutter needs a little to warm up. again going into and out of shiny speed barrier
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700 sfpm shiny and consistent until tool dulls
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seems ductile iron and steel goes shiny at slightly lower sfpm. its the unsteady finish or dull to shiny to dull which is annoying. tool life is less at shiny higher sfpm. trying to balance what the best to use
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Fog buster constant stream

January 7, 2018, 9:24 am
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I was wondering if anyone else has run into this. I bought the fog buster with the extra nozzle. One nozzle works exceptional, the other won't adjust and has a constant stream of coolant.
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Knowledge of Milltronics Partner 1 VMCs

January 7, 2018, 7:50 pm
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It seems there hasn't been much discussion on these in the last fee years, so I couldn't find answers to a few questions that came to mind.

How is the Centurion 5 or 6 control to program?

Is it similar to another control? I've only used Centroid and a small bit of Okuma OSP.

Can they be drip fed?

Do they have linear or box ways?

Can they have rigid tapping?

Were they very rigid or accurate?

Are they very serviceable any more?

Thanks

Jay

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
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Recommended Reading For CNC Swiss Lathe

January 7, 2018, 9:30 pm
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We are lathe shopping and our reps are really pushing Swiss style equipment. While they may be right in their recommendations I don’t know much of anything about them. Since I’m the one spending the money I’d prefer to educate myself before buying.

Can anyone recommend good books or websites that would be useful?

Thanks!
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Multi-Axis Fillets in CNC Pocket Milling

January 8, 2018, 9:48 am
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Hi all,

I am designing a part to be CNC milled from Aluminum. The part features a set of multi-axis fillets in one corner that I am concerned about. Shown in Photo 1 is an ISO view of the area in question. Photos 2 and 3 are top and front views. All measurements are in Inches.

My biggest concern is properly machining the R.094 fillet in the front view while maintaining the 2.0 degree draft angle and all other fillets. This large fillet is necessary for fitting a flanged connector into this part that is filleted.

I am open to recommendations of simplifying this geometry, I understand it is a bit complicated.

Thanks!

Edit: The resolution of my photos is only showing as thumbnail quality, currently trying to resolve this.
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Emergency Stop wont clear

January 8, 2018, 10:19 am
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This site has saved me more than once already. I've got another problem now. Just after the holidays I finally got my machine up and running. I produced some parts to fill an order and had everything set up well. Then we had that week of absolute stupid cold, and I stayed out of my garage and left heat off. I went back out a few days ago and fired up the lathe to make some adjustments to the part program I ran. The lathe appeared to have fired up fine,and let me work on the computer side fine. I even zero'd out x and y axis without any problems. I then went to check a measurement on the tooling, and attempted to rotate the turrent. At this point the lathe went into an emergency stop mode. Nothing is overtraveled and emergency stop button is was not touched. I've turned lathe on and off 30 times now and it won't clear. Reset button appears to do nothing on computer. I'm looking for hidden fuses as I've checked the obvious ones already. Any ideas? I'm attempting to read the "ladder" and it looks like a x020.2 may be "open". It looks like the ladder shows three items on the emergency stop circuit. the other two show up green and the spindle alarm code shows up white, so I'm thinking that one is "open". According to manual x020.2 is a spindle alarm, and it is clearly connected to the emergency stop ladder. Any ideas? I read somewhere else that there may be a breaker on the spindle motor itself??? This can't possibly be anything major. Nothing was crashed and the spindle wasn't even being attempted to run when this occurred. This is an old fanuc supermax with OT controls. I'm also locked out of the computer side now to work on the program, so clearly the error occurred after the lathe was fully fired up and functional. I can only change screens now, but can't change the program at all. Thanks everyone!
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spindle motor drive - position controlled stop without encoder

January 8, 2018, 11:25 am
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Hello, I'm putting a spindle together and need some advice. I have a motor in mind from Isgev: 3-phase induction, 2 kW, 230/400 V, 205 Hz, 4-pole. 7.4/4.3 amps. The motor speed at 200 Hz is about 6000 RPM, and the spindle is also rated to 6000 RPM, so current plan is to drive the spindle with a timing belt at 1:1 with the motor.

Now I'm trying to find the most logical driver for it. Note that I do not have 3-phase mains, only 220V.

I would like to be able to do position-controlled stops on the motor so I can line the drive dogs on the spindle up to a BT30 tool holder. I assume a stop position accuracy of ±2° will be accurate enough to line up the drive dogs to the tool holder slots, but it probably should not be much worse than this. I'm sure the ideal way to do this would be to use an encoder on the motor shaft, but I would like to find out of a sensor-less vector drive would be up to this task. I have no experience using a vector drive in this way. I believe they typically can do a position control strategy, but not sure if this is accurate as the motor ramps down all the way to zero RPM.

Does anyone have experience with similar setups?
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Hi All. I've got a Z-Axis motor overheat code on a cold machine that i just turned

January 8, 2018, 1:33 pm
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Hi All.

I've got a Z-Axis motor overheat code on a cold machine that i just turned on this morning. temps in the shop get pretty low during the winter at night and on weekends when we're shut down (40-50F) We warm the shop up before turning on the machines though to at least 50-60F. This morning i got this error coade along with a Z MIR message and gibberish on the screen. Any ideas on where to start the hunt for the problem? I'm attaching a pic of the screen shot for reference. Also I noticed when i switched screens to the memory screen it showed almost no programs almost like the CPU is gliching or something. ...Click image for larger version.  Name: 26230514_844158615758687_2570715727212639741_n.jpg  Views: 30  Size: 67.6 KB  ID: 217313
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Kent bed mill issues

January 8, 2018, 3:23 pm
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At my job, I'm currently running a Kent bed mill. It's an OK machine for what it is, but I have a few questions. The head is a bit out of tram- about .001 over a 7" diameter. It's out front to back, as if the ram is worn or sagging. Is there any adjustment for this short of reworking it?

Secondly, it seems like the spindle bearings are heading south. It's prone to chatter using a face mill, and it keeps cutting after a couple passes without moving the Z axis. The bearings are getting noisy at higher RPM's. I applied some upward pressure using a pry bar, and was able to move it a couple thou without applying huge amounts of pressure. I'm wondering if this is normal, or if I should start working on the boss to get new spindle bearings.

We have a number of 'dead' CNC machines that aren't operational (that will be another thread), so this is the only machine available above manual mills.
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Drilling "Caldie" - Need help - Or S7...

January 8, 2018, 3:57 pm
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I have a customer that is drilling some material called "Caldie" from Boehler Uddeholm.

UDDEHOLM CALDIE | Bohler Uddeholm

I spoke with Boehler about this material several weeks ago, and was told that it's "close to S7".

.7% Carbon
.2% Silicon
.5% Manganese
5.% Chrome
2.3% Molybdenum
.5% Vanadium

Harden-able to 60hrc. Supplied in annealed (215hb) condition.

The customer insists that it's like cutting a "tougher D2" however, their drilling chips don't look like that of D2. In my experience, D2 will produce chips from drilling much like brass - very short, fragmented & broken. The customer's chips in the Cal-Die material are short, and nicely formed & broken, as typical of a H.P. carbide drill in alloy steels.

The spec sheet for this "Cal-Die" material also looks very similar to S7 in chemical composition, and also in regards to hardness vs. toughness characteristics. Not to mention D2 typically has 1.5% carbon & 12-12.5% chrome, and this Caldie material is only 5% chrome.




My customer has to drill several holes 22mm diameter, up to say 6"/150mm in length. Machine is a DMG-Mori NVX5100, less than 1 year old. 15k spindle, 40-taper, with TSC. For shorter holes, they're able to use a short indexable drill, but a 5xD indexable drill will not stabilize on entry, produces a terrible hole quality, and chips the inserts after one hole. (Presumably after initial contact/entry...) The have tried spotting with a matching 2-3xD indexable drill, and milling a counterbore with an endmill, which they claim makes no difference.

They're hesitant to try a Seco crown-loc drill, because of fears over the connection... Lately, they've tried a Guhring replaceable-tip drill from my competitor. They're running that drill slow (350rpm for carbide) and experienced a few holes before chipping/cracking the insert and slightly deforming the cutter body.





Emphasis is on security against broken drills/tips. I'm getting ready to recommend an Allied spade-drill with cobalt inserts because of the toughness of the cobalt insert. This is right in that awkward size/depth range, where indexable's won't work because of the length, and it's too big in diameter for solid carbide drills. So replaceable-tip drills seem to be the only way to go.




I'm looking for people who have worked with this Caldie material, or even S7 at this point.

What kind of replaceable-tip drills have you had success with drilling these materials?

Just FYI - I'm a distributor for Walter, Seco, Allied, Kyocera, OSG, and Dormer. So any direct experience with these lines would be an even bigger plus...
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Hyundai SKT-210SY

January 8, 2018, 4:05 pm
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Hi All,

I'm wondering what the general consensus is on the hyundai kia SKT-210SY. No one I know runs one, and it seems to be largely overlooked. I like the machine, but the lack of knowledge surrounding it concerns me. Has anyone heard anything good or bad on these?
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Brother TC-S2A spindle

January 9, 2018, 6:13 am
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I have been using an edge finder with my brother and have been reading all the glowing reviews of Haimer Tasters. At the same time seeing how much time it takes me to set work offsets and not really having a good way to set Z offsets put me over the top and I ordered one. Yesterday it came and I put it in a ER32 collet chuck and found that I couldn't get the taster concentricity zeroed out. There is not quite enough travel because of spindle run-out. What a bummer. I have spent some time indicating things in my spindle and I knew the taper is not great. With the Haimer being so long I forgot how much that would magnify my spindle run-out. It's a 10k rpm spindle and it sounds good. I know I can probably get the spindle reground or maybe try to lap the taper but with the price of a new spindle being $2500 and that gives me new bearings, new tool retention system (I think), and a new taper I am inclined to go that way. It would be a big overall improvement for an old machine. I just bought solidworks so I may need to have a yard sale or something before jumping into this.

I just thought I'd throw this out there to see what kind of other insights were out there.
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Torolon machining help

January 9, 2018, 6:27 am
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Getting ready to setup and machine Torolon has anyone else machined this and if so what is a good SFP RPM to use with this stuff.

Also how is this on the tool life should I use carbide diamond coat or something else? I know I'll bet using 1/2 E.M. for my finish cut.
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