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Help Finding Chuck for Turning Center - Small OD, Large Bore

March 22, 2017, 6:00 pm
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I've been looking at the various web sites of the various manufacturers and coming to the conclusion that unless I want to spend stupid money for something like a Samchully UR-175 ( Mega Bore ) chuck, I am going to have to compromise my desires.

It also occurs to me that someone smarter than I am has likely been here before and figured out a better option. Maybe it as simple as swapping out a back plate. I don't know. But someone must...

We don't do a lot of large turning. So a larger chuck is slightly a waste, and there is the added drawback that the turret arrangement on this machine creates opportunities for tools to interfere unless one is careful. However... I really like the 2" bore and the ability to use it. We do a lot of gear blanks and being able to pass stock 2" in diameter is very handy.

What I want is a 6" - 6-1/2" Three jaw power chuck having a 52mm through hole. Does this exist at a reasonable price?

Thanks.
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New to CNC...

March 22, 2017, 6:58 pm
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Hello everyone! I have been working at a local Machine Shop and have been back and forth running our Haas VF 2 mill, and the Haas SL 30 (I believe is our lathe) I have taken a CNC Programming class but only know how to do basic stuff like initials, drill cycle, etc. I wanna ask some questions about our programs we are running (How he has it to run our parts, different G codes or M codes, etc.)

I dont wanna sound dumb but I wanna learn! Does anyone have any "Particularly" good questions that will be a good starting point to learn more than just tightening the vice, close the doors, cycle start, and so on?
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Looking to buy a new CNC Lathe chuck, what to look for?

March 22, 2017, 8:42 pm
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So just like the title states, my company finally budged on buying a new chuck for our Yama Seiki GLS-1500L. We currently use a 3 Jaw Chuck with WS-4 collet pads and when it comes to parts that need to be +0.0 -.0004" with concentricity, it is not really making the cut for us. It isn't making scrap, but it's close and a time waster. So, since I am still new to the game, 3 1/2 years, and being charged with making the decision of getting a chuck, I am wondering what I need to be looking for, what to ask, where to look, the works. I thought I had a rough idea of what we should buy, a S-20 pull back collet chuck, but I have since come to find that they can't have a solid/positive stop used in them? When I got a few quotes in, everyone tried to up sell the quick change which is out of my budget. (We can get the chuck, but the collet price per is WAY to rich for a middle of the road machine and with what my shop does) Any thoughts?
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.015 Area milling

March 23, 2017, 4:17 am
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Hi,

New to the forums, and very new to the machining world, so sorry if I misuse any terms or lingo. I'm having difficulty machining 420 stainless with micro endmills, due to speed limitations. Working with a VF2 with 15k spindle. When reading the tool charts from Harvey tool I'm confused about what these speeds and feeds calculated actually are applied to. Do they just apply to dynamic milling, area milling etc? The recommended speed for the tool is 50k at 200 sfm with .28xDia radial and .3xDia axial. So since I can only spin at 15k that is roughly 29% of needed, do I adjust the rest of the parameters for 29%? I've just been breaking so many small tools that I'm becoming extremely frustrated.

Again, sorry for any confusion or lack of knowledge.

Thanks
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Hardinge VMC-800 II Specs

March 23, 2017, 8:45 am
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Gentlemen,
Could someone with a Hardinge VMC-800II tell me how tall the machine is with the "Z-axis" all of the way down and all of the way up? I looked online and the measurement are all over the place from 98" to 110".
Thanks in advance....
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Increase surface speed with smaller Ae

March 23, 2017, 9:25 am
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Hi all,

I know it is possible to increase the surface speed when milling with a smaller Ae value.
But are there any standard practices or formulas to calculate how much I can increase the surface speed?

Best Regards,
Sven
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Drill and Countersink in one operation. CNC fadal 4020

March 23, 2017, 9:44 am
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Hello to everybody , am in charge for a project of reduction time , one thing that i want and i need too, is make holes and countersink at the same time.
No drill and after countersink, i need drill and in the same operation the countersink, the material that i work a 99% is aluminum, with thickness below ".1875" so is no complicated for make both operation's. but in this moment, i dont know if exist one tool or one process to make this in CNC.
i dont know if somebody he worked in the past or right now with a one process similar can help me with one advice or one suggestion.
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A-B 8600 dead Help!

March 23, 2017, 2:18 pm
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I have an Allen Bradley 8600 cnc (circa 1985), manufactured by OSAI. If the control isn't dead, it's breathing its last breath. It is fitted to a Jones and Shipman Format 5 surface grinder. My local repair guy won't touch it. I have contacted Prima Electro (Osai's parent) and am awaiting a reply. In the meantime, does anyone know an old A-B expert that can get this thing sorted out? The control appears to respond to the console but there is no video on the crt and buttons don''t light. It seems the control is responding half hearted, it's not sending a confirmation to the operator panel or the panel is not listening. All reasonable suggestions are really appreciated.
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Need a momentery relay to signal CNC from indexer

March 23, 2017, 4:22 pm
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I want to operate an erickson air indexer from a Prototrak control. The control is built to work with a Haas type box, and expects a momentary confirmation signal when the indexer is in position. The Erickson indexer has a microswitch on it that is open when unlocked, and closed when the indexer has moved into position and is locked in place, ready to cut the part. I can't use the microswitch for the confirmation because staying closed triggers the next machine cycle prematurely. I need the circuit to reopen and not close again until the indexer has cycled and has locked after the next cycle.

So - What is available to just operate momentarily after receiving a signal from another switch? I can supply any voltage needed to the relay (or device) from a transformer through the microswitch on the indexer, I plan to use 12 or 24 volts to operate the air valves to operate the indexer, but I could use 120V also. The draw from the Prototrak control is in milliamps and just needs dry contacts to conduct it. I think the length of time it needs to be closed is around 6 milliseconds - I suspect a full second would be OK without being too long.

Are there purely mechanical relays that will do this or do I need some sort of solid state device?
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Anyone using Niagara Stabilizer 2.0 end mills?

March 23, 2017, 8:06 pm
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Just grabbed a sample 1/2" and was hoping for some feedback from folks using them regularly.

Machine is a 2012 Haas VF-6SS. The Seco rep suggested using a high-quality sidelock since they love rigidity, and said if there's any chatter, increase the chipload as they had a customer running them at .002"/flute and experiencing chatter issues that went away at .006"/flute! :eek:

Most of our steels are plain old 1018/1020 or A36, nothing fancy or difficult. Current toolpaths tend to be HSM at 8k and 168 IPM at 10%rDOC up to 2.5xD.

Any real-world feedback appreciated.

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Lathe Turret Binding on a couple positions.

March 23, 2017, 11:16 pm
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I am stumped and in trouble big time on this one!

Id had been running the machine most of the day with no issues. Went to add a tool to the turret and suddenly this problem pops up out of seemingly nowhere.


When i try snd index the turret, it binds up like it tries to unlock but doesn't, and starts trying to turn anyways. It gets hung in this unlocked torqued position as long as i dare let it set before hitting the E Stop.

It only seems to happen to positions 10 and 11. If i hold "turret start" to manually command a tool change it generally works, even for the troubled tool positions. When I'm hitting the button one time to index one tool, or when that tool is called through the Code the turret either locks up or freaks out.

Heres a quick video of what its doing. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Femco Turret Binding - YouTube
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Jinan Blue Elephant CNC Machinery

March 23, 2017, 11:33 pm
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We have always been devoting to the research and manufacture of CNC engraving machines. Our products are widely used in Woodworking, Advertising, Model, Electric, CAD/CAM Industry Model, Clothing, Package Printing, Marking, Laser Sealing and so on.

Concetrate on:Cnc Router, Laser Engraving and Cutting Machine, Fiber Laser Cutting Machine, Fiber Laser Marking Machine, Stone Cnc Router, Plasma Metal Cutting machine, Cnc Lathe Machine, Advertising Cnc Router research and development production manufacture.

If you are interested in all the CNC router,we discuss at any time.
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Advise needed on best way to drill / bore a Ø2.76" full radius bottomed hole

March 24, 2017, 8:36 am
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Hi all.

I need some advise on the best way to produce this part. (attached pic)
My plan currently is to:
1) saw the blanks to length +1/8"
2) face and chamfer the back face
3) head to the 4th axis mill, and machine the flats / drill the Ø.406 holes
4) Back to the lathe to drill with a Ø2" (132° point) spade drill down 2.625"
5) ruff the bore with a standard boring bar, to remove the remaining material & some drill point angle.
6) Finish the bore with a SVJCR boring bar, that allows for full spherical radius

Does this make economic sense, or is there a better way?

The Lathe would be my aging Haas HL-4, and a standard VMC w/ 4th for the side holes.
The material is 1018crs.
Quantity is 133 pcs.

Thanks all,

Doug

Click image for larger version.  Name: full rad hole.JPG  Views: 123  Size: 88.2 KB  ID: 194588
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version.  Name: full rad hole.JPG  Views: N/A  Size: 88.2 KB  ID: 194588  
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Hand crank drill

March 24, 2017, 8:51 am
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So i was looking at supercapacitor screwdriver and found blucave which claims to charge in 60 seconds and I found hand cranks that charge supercapacitors so i ordered a blucave supercapacitor screwdriver and am about to make a hand crank screwdriver. Everyone said its possible. Im not good at putting stuff together so if anyone wants to try putting a hand crank on a super capacitor screw driver so people can charge the screwdriver by movibg a hand crank I welcome you to try abd hopefully someone will make a screwdriver that can be charged with a hand crank instead of having to be plugged in a wall. Thanks for reading
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Mazak T Plus spindle accel (will 50HP run in my shop???)

March 24, 2017, 9:08 am
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I have a 98 Mazak M4 with a 50HP AC spindle that I haven't hooked up. I've been saving up for real 3 phase before I put this machine into use. However, I use the identical machine, but 20 years older and 30HP DC spindle several times a week and lately it has taken a real nose dive into unreliability. I spend a good portion of my day dicking with it to keep it running and it is now starting to gain/lose half a MM increments in X on a frequent basis (it has always had an issue with losing 40 or 80 thou (1 or 2mm) in Z on the first few Z moves). yesterday I threatened to hook a chain to it and drag it outside and then it started making good parts after I made a fuck it decision and hard wired the hydraulic pump to the main breaker (bad connection somewhere).

I want to put the cart in front of the horse and install the newer machine, but I'm pretty screwed if it won't start the spindle on my power. I run off a 50 HP RPC fed by a 400 amp service and a 200 amp sub panel. About 120 amps 240V 3 phase max. I really don't want to add more RPC capacity. It's time and money wasted when I go to real 3 phase.

What it boils down to is if the Mazatrol/Mitsubishi control and spindle drive have enough adjustability to make it work on my power. I can keep power down in the cut, but ramp time is a killer with a 12" chuck and a 250 lb part.

Yes, no, Maybe?
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Issues with threading die on copper in Swiss-style lathe

March 24, 2017, 9:48 am
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Using a program somebody else wrote for this part:
Click image for larger version.  Name: copper point.jpg  Views: 29  Size: 12.1 KB  ID: 194590

Main:
  1. Turn taper
  2. Undercut end of thread ø.188 x .079W (not shown on print). Chamfer end of thread 45°.
  3. Turn thread OD to ø.243
  4. Chamfer part end/part off


Sub:
  1. Thread using 1/4-20 die (G84 rigid tapping)
  2. Pickoff


Machine: Tsugami BS12

Issues:
  • The part spins in the subspindle collet when threading with the 1/4-20 die. It worked fine for the first 50 pieces or so, but it seems the additional torque required as the die wore overcomes the collet's grip. I've decreased spindle speed to S125 (was originally S350) and increased finish Z depth.
  • Chips keep packing in die holder behind threading die. I'm using a straight shank die holder similar to this one: Straight Shank Die Holder. I've added a 1/8-27 NPT port behind the counterbore holding the threading die and plumbed the holder into the coolant manifold. I have to remove the die and clean out the chips every 20-25 pieces.


Does anybody have suggestions as to what else I can try? I need to make 1000 of these pieces and can't afford the time to manually run a die over the threads to make sure they go all the way to the undercut groove.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version.  Name: copper point.jpg  Views: N/A  Size: 12.1 KB  ID: 194590  
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Machining Waspalloy

March 24, 2017, 11:30 am
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Never touched the stuff before, so took an opportunity to play with it.
However - the print has changed since I quoted it - and for one thing - it needs heat treated.

Voice says that it is "5706" right now = RC-35
But the print has been updated to "5707" which he says will come in per the cert to RC-42

I thought that this stuff was gummy?
Apparently not...

From my experience, I wouldn't think that those 7 points wouldn't make much difference to me - and would prefer to H/T prior to machining. But with no experience in this material - I am checking with y'all.

???

I am turning round bar down (short stubby) and milling the flanged end flat. Possibly in the lathe.

I think the bar is 2-1/2" round.
Dare I expect to be able to cut it off in the lathe, or should it be slugged up in the saw first?

I found threads on the stuff as far as S/F / DOC and whatnot, but no clue on the "part-off" opperation at all. That is a pretty deep cut. I could stagger it and work my way down tho...
Only have 16 parts to make.


Most of all - currently - I need to decide if I want to have it H/T'd first or not.



Oh yeah - I need to put a 1/4-28 in 1/2" deep.
Can I form tap that? Or will I need to mill it in?


-----------------------

Thanks Y'all!
Ox
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Taking out threads out 6061

March 24, 2017, 12:51 pm
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Hello.
I have a client that had me put a bunch of 1/4 20 and 3/8 16 threads all over .5 plate. Apparently he made a mistake and wants the threads gone to fit bolts through them. What is the best way to do this? Drill, mill? As clean looking as possible would be great. I thought i should just drill them but maybe you guys have better ideas.
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Hurco tool zero issue

March 24, 2017, 2:27 pm
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We have 2 Hurcos that we use to run production hole making ops. On Wednesday after replacing tool's 2 and 3 something weird started happening. Run the program once and it's fine, load and hit go and right after the tool change from 3 to 1 it resets the tool 1 length to *******. If you try to restart the program it gives the message "block 11: illegal cylinder radius 0.0".

There are no other alarms. Block 11 is just the first move in the program...g0g90Xx.xxYx.Xx F x.Xx Sxxxx M6

I tried restarting the machine to no avail...remeasure the tool as it runs once and resets on the restart.

Start, stop, reset, and start the program and it resets the tool length.

It was running fine up until we changed out the tools.

Anyone have any ideas?
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How do you get an internal thread on size quickly?

March 24, 2017, 5:12 pm
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So, I've just spent about an hour searching through past threads on ... well, threading. I have to say, this is certainly an area where knowledge is lacking! I don't have any issues with finding the correct major, minor, PD, or anything else, but with an internal thread I always end up spending a lot of time "sneaking up" on the finished size.

I start with an external thread gauge, usually made by me as a first step, then I end up using this to check the fit of the internal thread**. Then I back the tool off anywhere from 0.020 to 0.005 depending on how much of a disaster it will be to overcut. After each cut I clean any burrs, try the gauge, and add no more than the maximum deviation between my gauge and the upper limit - plus maybe 0.001 or thereabouts.

So, inventing some numbers for illustration, say my internal thread needs to have a PD of 2.506" to 2.510". I'd make my gauge at or slightly greater than the lower number, 2.5065", to make sure that I'm in tolerance if it fits. So if I cut as described above and the gauge doesn't fit, I know that I can add a maximum of 0.004 to the tool offset for the next pass and still hit the tolerance (just barely). As the gauge just starts to catch on the first 1/4 to 1/2 turn, I'll start adding even less - like 0.002", so you can see how this could take a while if you're starting more than a few thou too low.

I have yet to find an internal thread mic, and if I were to find a rare one I'm sure the price would be outrageous. I have considered making this or that gadget, but it's something I do rarely enough that it's hard to justify spending a lot of time on making a tool as well.

I've figured out one method that has worked well for me. When I make the gauge described above, I also make a second gauge that's tapered. There's only a slight taper such that for each turn the PD is increased by a small amount (0.001" - 0.002"). I mark the section of threads where the PD is the same as the straight thread gauge, then when it binds in the piece I'm threading I know with some certainty how far I need to adjust the offset before I'm at the target dimension. If I'm really far off target, I'll use the tapered gauge another time or two to get me very close. I finish off with the straight thread gauge and the kind of tight/loose fit that I'm going for.

How do you go about this in a timely and accurate fashion? Does this sound more complicated than the method you use? Ever time I end up doing this I think to myself that there must be a better way.

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**Usually I'm not working on anything so critical that it requires a NO-GO to check I've not gone over so don't worry about that one.
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