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New to me, Machine day!

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The shop I work in bought A very used Femco BMC-110R2 Milling and Boring machine. It's still mostly in pieces, but should be up and running in a few weeks hopefully. I was curious about the machine and manufacturers Reputation-Quality. The boss man said this would be a good machine to complement our Romi M27. To do key-ways and bolt holes on shafts we work on. In the coming weeks me and flash will be asking questions about once it's up and running. Any comments and advice is always appreciated. I have enclosed a picture of the main part of the machine being unloaded below.


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New Machine Day / Month X 2

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ID:	181496Well , month of Sept. started out with me buying a used 2 spindle Doosan, up in Detroit. Pretty good machine for the money, (but) tolerance would not repeat good enough for the jet engine parts I am machining, so after a week of trying, said to heck with it. Called Morris South , asked what you guys got in stock? 5 days later, we unloaded a brand new 2SP760EX Okuma. 3 days later OMG , parts are beautiful ! I got it during the IMTS show , placing the order while the show was going on, got me a 5 yr mechanical & LIFETIME!!! warranty on the OSP control. Man this is one sweet machine! Now to rebuild the Doosan , shouldn't be to bad.
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Carbide aluminum machining endmill life?

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What type of tool life do people typically get machining aluminum with carbide end mills? I've been reading a bit and 5-10 hours seems typical running around 20k rpms with good filtering, coolant, and low runout?

How major of an issue is rubbing, if you take a low depth of cut (0.1" or less) and do step-down, on the walls particularly?

I'm building a small CNC (heavy preload Hiwin rails, harmonic drive 4th axis, c1 ground ballscrews, AC servos) and plan on using a small 2.2kw router spindle (runout less than 3 tenths) primarily with 1/4" (and smaller) reduced neck long reach carbide end mills from harvey-tool, however they are pretty expensive ($50 per end mill), I'd be happy with atleast 5 hours of tool life?

Thank you,
Dimitri

C-axis brake command

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hello
i have to make some axial drills on a diameter on a circular plate. I wish to brake the C-axis in order to make a precision work.
in my Tongtai TNL-130AL the command should M26 in the datasheet but it doesn't work. The manufacturer was not able to solve the problem.
do you have any suggestion?

Drill bit for 2.2 mm holes, 30 mm long in 316SS (lathe)?

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I'll have a hundred or more parts to make that have holes the subject size to make (0.086" diameter x 1.3" deep, blind) and am looking for a recommended brand/model bit.

The parts were made previously in 303SS with a jobber length HSS 135-deg drill from McMaster with "black & gold oxide" coating, whatever that is, at 900 rpm, 0.001" ipr feed, and 0.048" peck with retraction to Z+0.05" to clear the chips, and external flood coolant. I could get about 100 holes on average before the bit edge would break down.

I'm only made it through 2 parts in 316SS with the same bit and made it through 6 with a Morse parabolic bit even though the flutes are 5 mm short of full hole depth and I figure fate will rear its ugly head sooner or later so I'm looking for a better solution.

End Mill Flute Lead angle.

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I see 37 degree and 45 degree end mills all designed to cut aluminum fast. I know the 45 degree tools have a better chance of pulling parts up and out of the vise, but what are the reasons to use one over the other.

HP?
Speed?
sound?
??

Stepper Motor R356 Position Control

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I'am using a Lin Engineering stepper motor and R356 to control the position of a turntable. The Lin software requires that each step be entered on an individual basis, and provides no visual indication of position. Is there any software available that could be used to show how many degrees the turntable has move with each set step?

Identifying Mazak lathes

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SQT20, what does it all mean? I am looking for a used lathe, no big hurry I have been around Mazaks a bit so I am thinking that is what I might get. I want at least a 15" x 20" or so. Live tooling for sure. 3" spindle. Will these things tap? What model am I looking for? Is there a better brand, price/quality? I will be replacing my Miltronics ML20

Machine not staying level and square

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Anyone ever experience the epoxy anchors, or maybe epoxy under the leveling pads to keep throwing a machine out of whack? The tech swears this has happen before, that doing the epoxy wrong can have detrimental effect on machine accuracy.

PCD Reamers 1.000 thru 1.250 9" long for Aluminum

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Anyone have a good source on these? My tooling rep quoted guhring but they are 5-6 week lead time. Looking for something in 1-2 weeks

OT: 1045 - 1144 - Stressproof 311A

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If you were given a choice between 1045/1144/Stressproof for machining a 4.875" diameter part with a 3" thru hole, very tight tolerance on the ID and OD what would you choose? Or recommend a completely different material.

Part was originally made from 1018. I find 1018 to moves around too much when machining and not as easy to get a good finish on.

There is no welding or heat treating required. Part does not spin or slide and is not under a large load.

Looking for something with better stability and machinability.

Thank you.

VMC as a Cut Machine, program halts at each part. (Fanuc/MasterCAM)

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Hi All,
I was wondering if anyone here has used their CNC machines as a cut machine. Some months ago, I had a project where I had to cut flexible PCB material, so in a pinch, I purchased a Cricut cut machine for what I thought was a one-time job. What a mistake, but I got the job done. So, I got the same job again, and I decided I wasn't going to waste more time with the Cricut and thought I'd use my VMC as a cut machine, I made a cutting board with a crap plate of aluminum and a sheet of 1/32" polystyrene I just happen to have in the shop. Everything worked great, except one thing.

I've generated the g-code with MasterCam as usual, except I changed the tool to the proper blade holder and turned off the spindle (S0 M5). Everything seems to work fine until the spindle starts the initial Z-feed to the material. The program goes into some sort of a halt mode and I have to double-tap the "Dry Run" (on a Fanuc) for each part. I've penalized the parts in a 1x6 pattern, and I have to double-tap six times per sheet. Some sheets have three cut-outs per part, so I have to double-tap those sheets 18 times! So, I'm wasting my time in a different way. Here is a part of the code.

%
O0000(02 - BLADE CUT)
N10 G20
N12 G0 G17 G40 G49 G80 G90
N14 T20 M6
N16 G0 G90 G54 X-.005 Y-.05 S0 M5
N18 G43 H20 Z.25
N20 Z.1
N22 G1 Z-.01 F4.
N24 Y-6.0314 F24.
N26 X.62
N28 Y-.05
N30 X-.005
N32 G0 Z.24
N34 Z.25
N36 X.695
N38 Z.1
N40 G1 Z-.01 F4.
N42 Y-6.0314 F24.
.
.
.

The program halts before each "G1 Z-.01 F4." move. The program seems to work fine with the spindle spinning. I can't imagine removing the M5 would have any effect since M5 is only called once, and the program halts multiple times.

Or goes a G1 require the spindle to be spinning? That doesn't seem right either, since I can issue a G1 in MDI mode all day without issues.

Anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Best WNMG Steel ISO P turning inserts

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I was looking a some steel turning inserts for EN19 and EN8 (16 - 28HrC) Steel and would like know which are the best in the business.

I had been asked to select 2 of the best ones that work well and have the best tool life.(FYI - There are times where the parts have few spot welds too.)

Brands/grades that I am considering (have decent support for all, especially considering that you dont need much for basic WNMG/CNMG inserts):

Sumitomo AC820P / AC8025P
Tungaloy T9125
Sandvik 4325
SECO TP2501
Kyocera CA525
Korloy NC3225
Walter WPP20S (Costly compared to others by approx 30-40%)
Mitsubishi (dunno which grade is right)

Any help or guidance is highly appreciated! Just wanted some feedback from the experienced machinists who have tried many grades of WNMG/CNMG inserts for gen purpose turning
:)

Cut knurling parameters

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We just started with cut knurling, Tool rep didn't seem to be to knowledgeable and we have only run 150 out of 7000 parts and the knurls are chipping. 1 1/4" dia in 12L14 x 1" long 650 rpm at .003" feed This can't be right?

Hyundai HIT-30s TOOL EYE ISSUES

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Curious if anyone has dealt with this before.

For a while the "tool eye back" sensor on my HIT-30s has been acting up.
Because the sensor would malfunction half the time I began turning off the tool eye during production to avoid alarms and then turn it on to set tools. For a while all I had to do was turn it on and wiggle the wire from the sensor to get the sensor to read to send the arm forward. The red light on the sensor would light up when I did this which coincided with the machine recognizing "tool eye back". When the light wasn't on, the machine read as "tool eye undefined" which restricted bringing the arm forward, jogging machine etc. Now the light stays on but all I get in the control is "tool eye undefined". At first I thought I needed to replace the sensor, but now I'm not so convinced because the sensor seems to be working but not communicating. Any advice would be much appreciated as this is becoming a huge PITA!

Thanks

Ben

old valenite tooling

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Dose any one remember the old Valenite BB1 and BB2 dove tail boring bars? you could get a roughing head or a fine boring head. Dose any one make them any more I have been searching all over the internet and cant find any place that makes them.

thanks for your help in advance.:confused:

Ball screw reconditioning - regrind or oversize reload ... and servo recondition?

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Have a 1988 model CNC knee mill. Works great for our protoyping shop, as it is a support arm of our product development business. Makes the parts we need, and then we contract for production with someone with a production mill.

Anyway, the ballscrews have been progressively worsening over the past few months (brought it online early this year) - likely due to the several years of sitting before we got it, leading to dried out oil, etc. ... and us not realizing all the oiled parts needed to be flushed before running again (we just flushed, cleaned, and refilled the oil reservoir and actual pump, nothing farther).
The Y & Z ball screws are Tsubaki, external tube. The X ball screw is unmarked, but according to the place we have it at right now is high quality. It has internal tubes.

We have the ballscrews out for a quote to a reconditioning place a couple hours away - they are likely going to want to regrind / re-heat-treat the X-axis at least (apparently someone has monkeyed with it before, as they say it has 3 different sizes of balls ... 0.121, 0.124, and 0.125in). Another place is wanting to come out and reload them with oversize balls - says it takes advantage of the work hardening of the screws/nuts. What is your opinion? Is regrinding a problem? Preferred?

QUESTION 1: Is reloading with oversized balls going to sacrifice performance/longevity/something-else??? Is regrinding better or worse than oversize reloading?

Also, the place the ballscrews are at right now is claiming they need to examine the servo motors (SEM 26N-m / 5.5 running amp), as the x-axis is 'gray' (I can't see it - it looks like shiny metal with an oil film - some of it dried at the very ends - on it to me, but I'm no ballscrew expert). They claim that if I don't have them examine the servos and recondition them if necessary, that it could mess up my shiny 'new' ballscrews as it will make them work more (that's how I understand what they're saying the problem is).
Now, I can see that the servos can be overworked/overheated by bad ballscrews. But the budget for this piece of machinery isn't high at any given time ... and I don't understand how the servos being sub-optimal performance is going to destroy the ball screws, especially since the servos drive the ballscrews on all 3 axes by timing belts.

QUESTION 2: Does anybody here have any wisdom/input/opinions on servos destroying ball screws???

Thank you to everyone in advance!

Kia 21 Turning Center Turret Alarms

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We continue to try to get this Kia back in operation. We resolved the AL-28 Spindle Stop error, that turned out to be an incorrectly wired chuck clamp switch causing all of the problem. Now however, we are trying to diagnose the final set of errors, turret alarms for clamp time over, indexing over time, and turret abnormal stop. To refresh, the control is Yasnac LX3, we've replaced the mother board, I/O board, spindle drive, Z axis servo, and turret servo drive. Have regen'd and reinstalled parameters. Have ran the turret lost sequence multiple times to make sure turret orientation is correct.

We have disassembled and cleaned the magnetic proximity sensors on the turret drive, this turret does not clamp and unclamp. The prox sensors have red lights, and seem to operate correctly as the turret flywheel rotates and triggers them. The turret operates erratically, and without consistentcy when operating manually. Our flywheel must rotate 180 degrees for each tool change, however it varies significantly from tool change to tool change, and this variance causes the flywheel to not rotate fully for each tool change and therefore the mag prox switches tell the control that the turret hasn't rotated and the timers alarm. Any ideas on what could be telling the turret to rotate differing degrees with each manual turret index?

If we start a program with the correct tool in position for the first tool change, then the program runs perfectly until it hits the next tool change, and then alarms immediately. I feel like we're getting so close, any ideas on where to look for solutions for our turret rotation problems would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Fanuc 6t G50 spindle clamp/limit

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Hi I have question is thier a parameter that lets G50 work or not as spindle clamp/max speed? I wrote a program using G50 set at 1200 and the spindle speed went to 2200 using CSS. My understanding is if I use a G50 when using CSS the spindle speed should not exceed the G50 spindle clamp. I will post the code after I get home from work.

Does anybody have a Haimer "3d Taster" in METRIC here?

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I mistakenly purchased 2 extra tips for mine but bought them in metric, not inch. They have the 4mm ball instead of the .200" ball.

It is too late for me to return them as I bought them as spares, then when I needed it, didn't work. If anybody wants these let me know. You pay the freight and they are yours to use.

Jon
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