Finished our new shop..

April 16, 2016, 6:25 pm

≫ Next: perimeter air/coolant thru holder?

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We have our new shop pretty much done. My wife and I bought a 2001 Haas VF3 to run as a home based business. We are lucky that we are in a area where this is permitted and legal to do. (way out in the sticks..lol..) Bought it in Dallas Texas and trucked it up here to the Seattle Wa area ourselves. I used to work at a cnc shop ten years ago and want to try and give it a go on my own. We have a lot of friends in the drag racing world who own businesses that build cars and want stuff done so we are going to specialize in doing one offs and such for race cars. YES, I totally understand that friends expect things to be cheap or free but I've been down that road before and know just to be straight upfront with them on what stuff will cost and if they say that's to much we will just move on. All ready got a few parts to make, 10 of one and 20 of the other. All we are lacking is programming software that we are currently saving up for. I hope to get Gibbs just because that's what I ran before and I really like how it worked. The good thing is everything is paid for and for a while it will be "side work" as we both still have regular jobs. Not sure if I can ever make this a full time deal that will cover our bills but I want to try. I'm NOT doing this as a "hobby", this is a total business to me.

After we get going and I can learn how to program better and be efficient at making parts we will go after other work and try to up our customer base besides just doing race car stuff. I have been learning a ton from reading on here every night for the last year. The knowledge base on here is great and I truly thank those that take the time to help others out. I have all ready received some help on here and it saved me a ton of money and time. Thank you!

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perimeter air/coolant thru holder?

April 17, 2016, 10:22 am

≫ Next: Help, I need a machine mechanic

≪ Previous: Finished our new shop..

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Do you folks know of any collet holders that have air/coolant passages thru the holder that deliver the blast to the perimeter of the tool? Not thru the tool. For use with solid endmills I mean. I thought I had seen these before but not having much luck in finding them now.

Also.. Since this vf4 is "tsc ready" (just doesn't have the pump and tsc kit) then am I correct in assuming there should be no problems connecting an air supply and using a relay and m Code to activate a solenoid?

Help, I need a machine mechanic

April 17, 2016, 1:19 pm

≫ Next: Slotting with indexable endmill

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I have 3 Bridgeport CNCs, a Boss 5, Boss6 (Series II) and a Boss 9. All three need some form of mechanical repair or other. Belts, pulleys, other adjustments. I can't find a repair person within a 6 hour drive from my location in zipcode 13827 (Upstate NY, between Binghamton and Elmira, near the PA border). The closest ones I found are near Philadelphia and in Connecticut. If anyone knows anybody that is within reasonable driving distance, or you are that person, please contact me. This is quite urgent. Thank you. 607-687-0143

Slotting with indexable endmill

April 18, 2016, 8:04 am

≫ Next: Tramming/Leveling CNC Mill

≪ Previous: Help, I need a machine mechanic

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Hi guys,
Have to make 50mm long slot. 16.1 mm wide. Tolerance on width 0.05 mm. Depth 11 mm.
Material SAE 1018 flat bar.
Have to make about 800-1000 of those for now, might be as regular order. Not very sure.

Slot is blind. Currently I am ramping into material with indexable (2# inserts) 16mm endmill, 2.5° ramp angle. Few passes, final cleaning by solid carbide 10mm endmill. Job securely clamped in lockdown vice.

Takes quite a bit of time....about 2 min for slotting.

Need ideas to decrease cycle times...[emoji15]

Tramming/Leveling CNC Mill

April 18, 2016, 8:41 am

≫ Next: 12VAC machine lighting

≪ Previous: Slotting with indexable endmill

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I checked the tram on the my vmc yesterday on about 12" Diameter was damn close when I leveled it originally about ~.0005 X and Y directions only had .0005 indicator at the time. Checked it yesterday with .0001 indicator and X was under .0001 and Y was about .002


My question is really trying to get it any closer? I figure I could be chasing my tail every month or so but bugs me knowing it's out

Practical Machinist Thoughts?

12VAC machine lighting

April 18, 2016, 8:47 am

≫ Next: A-one 5-axis vise (Chinese)

≪ Previous: Tramming/Leveling CNC Mill

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We've got a couple of older Puma 240B lathes with broken/missing interior lamp housings. The factory says these are 12VAC lights and they offer a pretty expensive LED replacement/upgrade for these machines.
Has anyone came up with a low cost lighting alternative for 12VAC interior machine lighting?

TIA

A-one 5-axis vise (Chinese)

April 18, 2016, 11:44 am

≫ Next: How do I make a usb work in a "floppy emulator" floppy drive to usb conversion?

≪ Previous: 12VAC machine lighting

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We're looking at designing tooling that requires two self-centering vises.

We're machining wood parts and doing light cuts so ultimate holding power is not a concern. What is a concern is that the vises be small and light and accurate when clamping. We've tried import self-centering vises already and they tend to push the part upwards when clamping.

I'm wondering if a 5-axis vise would eliminate the problem of part lifting during tightening?

This is the vise that fits our budget of $1K. Any words of wisdom?

5 axis cnc machine vise, View vise, A-one Product Details from Shenzhen Jingzuan Precision Hardware & Tools Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com

How do I make a usb work in a "floppy emulator" floppy drive to usb conversion?

April 18, 2016, 2:27 pm

≫ Next: 4 axis CNC machining slightly off centre

≪ Previous: A-one 5-axis vise (Chinese)

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Hi, I bought a 2001 Haas VF3 that has a GOTEK "floppy emulator" ( I think that's what it is called) to replace the floppy drive so it can use a USB stick to load programs in the machine. I have a program to run but it wont load. Doing some research it looks like the USB stick must be "formatted" to look like a floppy disk to the machine? Then there are two buttons and a 0 to 99 readout on the emulator that you pick what program number you want to load?

I am NOT good at all with computer stuff, I've tried online to format the usb but I'm getting no where.

If anybody could walk me through how to format the usb then load a program that would be awesome..

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4 axis CNC machining slightly off centre

April 18, 2016, 5:10 pm

≫ Next: Help Understanding Tsugami G150/G300

≪ Previous: How do I make a usb work in a "floppy emulator" floppy drive to usb conversion?

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Hi Fellow machinists,
I have a 4 axis machine and been using it with for a few years now. I have noticed a problem that has got me tossed. My centre of rotation is along the Y axis. After setting my zero points (x, y, z, a) and confirming that there is no misalignment between the indexer and the tail-stock, when I initiate the run sequence, the piece is machined slightly off centre by about 1mm. I am using Rhinocam and Mach3 though a Gecko controller.

After a couple of days of checking all settings in both programs (over and over and over), there is nothing that looks out of place. When I run the simulation in Rhinocam, all toolpaths look centered, so I don't think the problem is there. Strangely, if I machine a square cut-out on a flat surface using x,y & z axis, it works perfectly. I have checked for machine run-out and again all is OK and true.
I have never noticed this error before, so whether it is a new development or not I don't know. Problem is, if I machine the top surface, then rotate 180 degrees, the misalignment then totals 2mm. I have looked at tool compensation but cannot see this causing the issue.

I have checked the settings in the Rhinocam Post-Processor Generator and Mach3 General Config but can't see anything that could cause this error (however I have been known to be wrong).

I have posted an image (for a clearer understanding) that I found on another forum where a fellow was having the same/similar issue when trying to machine a square end on a table leg. Unfortunately there was no final result/solution posted so I do not know the final outcome and there is no way to contact the person concerned.

So if anyone has experienced this, or has any suggestions to this dilemma I would be VERY appreciative.

Thank you all in advance.

Phil

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Help Understanding Tsugami G150/G300

April 18, 2016, 7:14 pm

≫ Next: Deep Ball End Milling in 6061-T6 Aluminum Recommendations

≪ Previous: 4 axis CNC machining slightly off centre

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I keep reading the manual and just don't quite understand what's going on. I get that you're using G300 to set the part length and G150 allows you to shave a bit more off the part for good measure or whatever but could someone try explaining those two commands in your own words? Maybe it'll click for me where the manual isn't. What is the point of the X word and T word in the G300 line? If you just cut off a part and the stock is up against the cutoff why would you need to use G150 to shift your work? Is it to allow for a little extra stock on the next part's facing op? Etc. Thank you!

Deep Ball End Milling in 6061-T6 Aluminum Recommendations

April 18, 2016, 7:39 pm

≫ Next: Question about turning radius profiles.

≪ Previous: Help Understanding Tsugami G150/G300

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Hello All-

So I haven't done much deep pocket end milling and especially with a ball end mill. I have some pockets that need to be 1-3/16" Deep with a 1/8 radius (so 1/4" Ball End Mill). I have 2 mills I'm looking at (pictures attached). Just wanted to see what peoples opinions are on which one to use? Also, what feeds and speeds one would recommend for a starting point to have a nice side wall finish without chattering.

Milling 6061-T6 Aluminum, 1/4" Ball End Mill, Pocket is 1-3/16" Deep.

Thanks!
-Nate

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Question about turning radius profiles.

April 18, 2016, 8:57 pm

≫ Next: Smallest Machined Taper Angle

≪ Previous: Deep Ball End Milling in 6061-T6 Aluminum Recommendations

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So today I get a job re-profiling some rollers. Nothing fancy, just 3.5" OD, .5" wide, with a 6" radius on them.
A piece of metal is rolled between them and the radius helps roll some of the stress out of it.

Anywho, I take the first two of them, and on a whim put them together (like gears would be, but with no teeth!) to see what the radius looks like.
Sure enough, there's a flat about 1/8 wide right in the middle of the rolls.
After humming and hahing about X screw backlash, I dug out the good ol' machinery handbook for chord width and height.

Over the 1/8 chord length in the middle, the height is only .00033".
With a .0001" machine resolution (would that make it .0002" diameter resolution?) and such a large radius, is it just at the point where using two linear X-Z movements you simply can't follow the profile?
You could set up a grinder that pivots on a point to put a true radius on it which leads into the next question.

If this had a standard +- .001" tolerance on a drawing, how would that play out? Its VERY obvious that it's no longer a radius, but at the same time I would say that it's still in tolerance.


Looking forward to reading the replies on this.

Ed.

Smallest Machined Taper Angle

April 18, 2016, 11:54 pm

≫ Next: Bridgeport interact mk2

≪ Previous: Question about turning radius profiles.

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Hi,

Recently, I have used a digital veriner caliper to measure a tapered cylinder workpiece. There is a difference in diameter of around 0.2mm over a length of 75mm (which equates to a taper angle of 0.1° or 6 arcmin)

To me, a taper angle of 0.1° is very very small.
1) How is it achieved? (by compound rest, tailstock offset or taper attachment)
2) May I know what is the smallest taper angle that can be physically achieved / machined?
(by say lathe / turning or other process)

Looking forward to your replies on the 2 points.
Thanks for your help!

Ho Leong Khit

Bridgeport interact mk2

April 19, 2016, 5:51 am

≫ Next: Dead Text Screen on Hurco BMC25 with Max32 (Ultimax2)

≪ Previous: Smallest Machined Taper Angle

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Hi guys I am brand new to CNC machines and milling and just picked up an interact mk2 with Heidenhain 151 control. Got it all wired up with3 phase power and it boots up ok, press the CE button to get to the axis and it moves through each one no problem with the yellow and green button pressed. This is where I have a problem the orange light only stays on when the button is pressed and as soon as you let it go it goes out. I can move the table with the joy stick along the axis but only when I keep the button pressed in. The spindle goes up and down no problem and the head rotates fine, but again only when the yellow button is held in. It was low in oil and I have topped that up so its not that causing the problem. I have also checked all the fuses and breakers and all seems fine. Also done some meter check on some of the wires that were suggested in online serches with no luck. Any suggestions? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Dead Text Screen on Hurco BMC25 with Max32 (Ultimax2)

April 19, 2016, 8:35 am

≫ Next: Rate my 5th axis riser

≪ Previous: Bridgeport interact mk2

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I bought a BMC25 a few years back direct from Hurco . It has Ultimax 2 ( Max32 ) control. The machine has a fault at present and the text display has stopped working. I have tested both of the CRT driver boards at the rear of the CRTs and have replaced 8 capacitors which were measuring outside of specification. Other than that I could not find any fault with the boards. The graphics screen displays as normal and the machine appears to be working normally, with the exception of the text display screen which is completely blank. If I take the ribbon cable which feeds the graphics CRT driver board and plug it into the text screen CRT driver board I can get graphics display on the text CRT, so I'm sure the CRT is working correctly.
I have adjusted the main power supply voltages to get the correct 5V and 12V levels. Is there any way to identify if the problem lies with the CRT display controller board ( 415-0174-001L) or the CRT driver board at the rear of the CRTs. I do not want to buy replacement boards unnecessarily.
If there are any other tests that you could suggest or perhaps a way to get the text to display in another way so that I can use the machine I would be very grateful.

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Rate my 5th axis riser

April 19, 2016, 3:04 pm

≫ Next: Is There a Way to Cut 10 Slits at a Time on a 9 Degree Angle?

≪ Previous: Dead Text Screen on Hurco BMC25 with Max32 (Ultimax2)

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I didn't want to have to make one but for lack of an off the shelf riser to fit both my Haas UMC 750SS and the 5th Axis dovetail fixture I purchased (D362M) here I am.

Obviously I'm no expert on making drawings but here's the sketch of the base plate and riser. The riser looks to be the weak point (aside from the overall height in general). I didn't have time to make it all myself so I had the old guy (shop owner) bust me one out in the manual mill. I think there should have been a radius in the bottom ledge at the minimum. Even better would have been to maintain the 7" diameter and mill the sides like a truncated 2 sided pyramid for clearance but this is what I got.

I'm milling a 4 x 4.8 x 11.5" acetal copoly blank and this will be my first real 5 axis job that requires positioning and a small simultaneous detail. It looks weak but I don't know. What do greater minds think?

Couldn't upload a PDF so I included photos

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Is There a Way to Cut 10 Slits at a Time on a 9 Degree Angle?

April 19, 2016, 4:06 pm

≫ Next: New Machines Day

≪ Previous: Rate my 5th axis riser

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So we have a HUGE market for a particular part that's saturated with cheap parts... they aren't particularly happy with the quality, but they work now, so it's not justified to charge more since they need a ton of them yearly... they're a little funky, however, and we have to match whatever mom and pop shop is making these dirt cheap...

The bottom line of the job comes down to can we cut .028" slits in a part on a 9 degree angle all at once, because we won't be able to take the time to cut them individually and meet the price...

PROBLEM A: If you stacked up saw blades on a horizontal mill and cut them straight over the top with the part positioned at a 9 degree angle, the stacked saw blades would need a 9 degree Christmas tree of blades to make up for the slit depth loss

PROBLEM B: If you stacked up saw blades on a horizontal mill and cut the slits with the part sitting flat, the slits would need to be made at a 9 degree angle while maintaining the same depth...

PROBLEM C: To have them EDM'd we would lose money just on the EDM process... (which I imagine you already figured since we can't even take the time to slit them individually)

There are 10 slits on each side... if we can figure out a solution to this problem, it represents a big chunk of sales because they need 3,200/year as well as individual replacement parts from wear, and there is other plants that use a similar part that we could replace as OEM...

The part is mild steel (1018) and I figured I'd throw a curve-ball to the forum to see what you guys think?

New Machines Day

April 19, 2016, 6:01 pm

≫ Next: Proper disconnect switch sizing for CNC lathe

≪ Previous: Is There a Way to Cut 10 Slits at a Time on a 9 Degree Angle?

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We got 2 new machines today... Company must be doing well. 8 years ago I sold my bosses on new tech and they have been investing...:)

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Proper disconnect switch sizing for CNC lathe

April 20, 2016, 10:52 am

≫ Next: siemens 828d controll giving electrical problems

≪ Previous: New Machines Day

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I am looking to install a fusible disconnect switch for my CNC Lathe, but I'm having trouble understanding how to size it properly as the machine does not call out a specific full load amp value.

Mazak QT Nexus 100-II

Machine continuous rating 17.2Kva = 45Amps
Machine 30 minute rating is 22.5Kva = 59Amps

Do I start the calculation with the 22.5KVa or the 17.2Kva?

I'm never intending to push this machine at its limits so I would rather have safety factor built in.

siemens 828d controll giving electrical problems

April 20, 2016, 10:59 am

≫ Next: Newbie Question for Piston Skirt Programming and Machining

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Hey all i am in some need for some help.

today we have installed a new doosan dnm500ii with a siemens 828d control.

evrything went well until they started up the machine.

it will randomly trip the breaker at the electrical cabinet after testing the estop and pressing reset on the control.
its a entire new cable specified by the reseller.
breaker is a 63a one so its more the strong enough and it does trip when the only the control is on.

as i am in some desperate need to get another spindle running as fast as i can i could use all the help there is to get the install done asap.

thanks in advance