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Fanuc APC 307 Alarm

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In a pickle. Purchased a CNC Lathe, Moved the machine and had my electrician wire it up today. Machine sat for one week after the move. Upon power, I get APC 307 DOWN 1 on each axis X Z

If I understand my research, I can simply leave the machine running, press the E-Stop button and swap the battery out. It takes a BR-AGCF2W Battery Pack. 2 (3v) Lithium Batteries.

Of course nobody near me has one in stock. The battery place has a single battery 3v but they won't mess with it to make it the 6V like I need.

Soonest I can get a battery here would me Tuesday,

With that being said, not knowing the machine has already been shut off multiple times. Upon powering it up, the alarm can be cleared and the machine runs.

I am in a pickle, and don't know what to do. This is being powered by a 25HP rotary phase converter so I can't leave that running for 3 days straight,

will I be ok just ordering a battery and waiting until I get it Tuesday and do the swap?

Service for Older Hurco Hawk 5M 1995 ?

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Hurco Hawk has issues.. Computer will not boot up... Sadly, Tim R. the local Hurco expert, is no longer allowed to service Hurco machines. I am in Upstate SC. Any ideas on a knowledgable tech in the area, or just bite the bullet and call Hurco?

Looking for CNC training software

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I am looking for some CNC training software. I am an instructor at a community college and we currently use a very outdated video training series called "maestro". We have been given a grant and are looking to update this portion of our program. I have inquired with MasterTask. Any others that anyone knows of? I am looking for software that I can purchase seats and use repeatedly on the same computers, semester after semester. I am doing lecture and lab work of course but use this as an additional training method.
Thanks

Screw Machine replacement

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We own a myriad of screw machines that are still fully operational. Still, replacement parts are becoming more rare/expensive, and one day they WILL give up the ghost.

We're struggling to find a machine that can even begin to complete with them for creating small parts efficiently. We would use multiple spindles, but they take a long time to set up, and we don't make enough parts to justify the set up time.

Anyway, we have a couple of GTs (lathes with tools on a slide), but the operations are still being run one-by-one versus the screw machines which do multiple things simultaneously.

What would you guys recommend?

How to control flexibility in Y-axis

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I am going to build a wood cnc router. The two pictures of x-axis are attached. There is also a router model attached, I not going to build router like this model, it is just to explain my problem.

If I press at the x-axis point with hand (as shown in router model), it moves forward about 5-7 mm easily with a slight push, means, there is flexibility. I want to eliminate this flexibility. Please suggest me how to do it.

I think it is flexibility of y-axis arm attached to x-axis railing. Is it?
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Fanuc 3m file transfer

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I have a Kiwa mill with the Fanuc 3m model c on it. I was wondering if anyone knows the cable set up to send and recieve programs from the control to a pc. Also I need to know what has to be done at the control to acheive this. Right now I do have an older computer with cadem software on it and a 9 or 25 pin port on the back.

Matsuurra fms

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Curious if anyone has a manual for the fms side of the matsuurra on pdf by chance that they can share?

hardinge parameter and alarms.. need help please

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so.. lost most of my parameters on a fanuc ot hardinge conquest 42..
luckily and after reading here.. I had photos of parameters so I input all I had..

the machine is saying this..

408 servo alarm serial not ready
417 servo alarm x axis dgtl parameter
427 servo alarm z axis dgtl parameter
437 servo alarm 3 axis dgtl parameter..

can anyone clue me in on this.. need to get machine back up

my program got corrupted so I held delete when I started machine .. programs are gone I think but this stuff is here..
thank you in advance

Quick bar puller question?

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Hi guys, i was looking at getting one of the combo part-off/bar-pull tools for my cnc lathe, like Royal products and others make. They have serrated pads and spring steel arms to grip the bar immediately after part-off op.

Question is, how much 'spring' do most guys normally allow for when setting up to suit a particular round bar diameter? Example: If a guy was going to pull 3/4" stainless bar, would you set the gap between the surfaces of the serrated pads to something like 0.700" ?? (I.e. 0.050" interference or 'spring') or more or less?

Do you run less for aluminium, or same interference for everything? Any other tips or suggestions when using these gizmos would be appreciated.

Thanks, Dean.

Need Advice on small 10HP CNC Lathe Options

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I am growing from a manual shop to requiring a CNC lathe. I've been around CNC equipment for some time at my old day job, but I'm curious to know other peoples experience.

Me personally, I'm on the Mazak bandwagon specifically for familiarity, the ease of the equipment operation and service parts availability. its an opinion I know.

I'm looking for a 2 axis lathe at about 10 HP or 45 FLA. Mostly because I'm going to run off my current power availability until I have more money to upgrade there.

I primarily run aluminum up to 5" Diameter. Some stainless. Stainless parts are 1" and under.

Anyone have any recommendations of other makes/models to look at?

Thanks

Identify 6TB Switches?

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Can anyone tell me what the switch all the way to the left and the right does? And below the toggles there is a Zero Tool icon, any idea how to use that.

Thanx in advance
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Miyano MTV T350 3-Axis Milling Machine

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I recently purchased a Miyano MTV T350 3-axis milling machine with Yasnac J100M Controller. I'm interested in hearing from other users of this machine. I'd like to hear feedback about operations, reliability, known issues, creative machine applications, etc.

Thank you,

Machining Glass Epoxy (G-10, G-11, FR4, etc.) and Phenolic

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First time post (hopefully the format is OK)

The Fabrication and Cutting of Thermoset Materials

Introduction

As the machining of plastic materials cannot be mastered in one setting, the same can be said, probably more so, of thermosets (FR4/G-10, G-11, phenolics). Glass epoxies and phenolic have traditionally been unfairly characterized as materials that a lot of machine shops or fabricators avoid due to their dust, wear and tear on equipment/tools and overall “toughness” of the material. To the contrary, with a little bit of practice and patience most fabricators can master the art of thermosets. What follows is mostly a guide to get you started in that process. Mastering these suggestions will not immediately make you an expert machinist of these materials but should significantly improve your ways of doing so.
Paper and Fabric Grades

Thermoset materials machine well with proper techniques. As a rule, they machine more readily than metals with standard machine tools such as those used for wood or metal fabrication.

For most machining operations, ordinary high-speed steel tools are satisfactory. However, where production quantity, speed or finish is important, carbide-tipped tools often prove more economical. Cutting tools must be kept extremely sharp to achieve accuracy and fine finish.

Thermosets are machined dry - cutting compounds and lubricants are not necessary. Cooling by air is preferable to the use of liquid coolants which are difficult to remove from finished parts. Machine operators should be cautioned to keep the temperature of the work below 150°C since temperatures above 150°C may distort the material. Cuttings are readily removed by suction.


Epoxy Glass Base Grades

In many cases, the same machining operations employed in the fabrication of metals and wood may also be adapted to glass base grades. However, certain slight changes in tools and the use of proper speeds are necessary.

Diamond or tungsten-carbide tools will give more satisfactory work with much longer, more economical life than high-speed tools.


CIRCULAR SAWING


Paper and Fabric Grades

Circular saws may be used for straight or angular sawing. When smooth edges are required or close tolerances are important, a hollow-ground circular saw without set should be used. For rough cutting, saws with set are satisfactory. Best results are obtained when the saw blade projects a minimum distance above the saw table.

12” saws should be used for material up to 1” thick and 16” saws should be used for thickness up to 2 1/2”. It is important that all teeth be square, of the same height, and free from burrs. The cutting edge should run either directly toward or just back of the center hole. In both circular sawing and band sawing, the work should be fed as rapidly as possible without forcing.

Common industry standards for circular saws are shown on this page.

Epoxy Glass Base Grades

A diamond impregnated wheel with copper body 1/16” thick and 12” dia. run at 3000-3600 rpm will give good results cutting dry with a good exhaust system. Material feed should be as fast possible without forcing the saw. Idling creates friction and heat, which cause excessive dulling and burning. A flood of water, or water-soluble coolants, on the work and wheel can be used when necessary to prevent overheating. Abrasive wheel cutting under water is also recommended.

Circular Saw Data

Application rpm # of teeth diameter N T S

Rough cut* 2150 100 16” 3/8” 1/4” 1/8”
Smooth cut* 2150 100 16” 9/32” 5/32” 1/16”
All purpose* 2860 100 12” 3/8” 3/16” 1/8”
Tubing cuts 2860 100 12” 1/4” .095” 1/16”
* These saws have .019” set. Other saws are hollow ground to prevent binding

TURNING

Paper and Fabric Grades

Ordinary high-speed tool steel can be used in finishing operations for all thermoset grades. However, carbide-tipped tools may prove more economical and will hold sizes more accurately from piece to piece. About .010” stock should be left for finishing. Thermosets can be turned at 400 surface feet per minute with high-speed tools, and about twice that fast with carbides. Tools should be kept sharp, ground, with an included angle of 80° to 100°, and with a 10° to 16° side clearance. Cutting should be done dry.

Epoxy Glass Based Grades


Conventional machining such as turning, boring, and facing can be done on automatic screw machines, standard and production lathes and hand turret lathes.

Carbide-tipped tools and cutters should be used with surface speeds below those used for paper base laminates. Tools should be ground with a zero rake and machining can be done dry with an exhaust system to remove dust. A coolant can be used, but it is not necessary.

MILLING

Paper and Fabric Grades

Standard tools may be used at speeds and feeds similar to those for bronze and soft steel. It may be more economical in spite of higher material cost to use carbide tools. The cutting angle of the mill will give better results if ground with a slight rake.

Epoxy Glass Based Grades

Glass base laminates can be milled very satisfactorily on any conventional metal-working milling machine. Carbide tipped tools should be used. Only climb or down milling should be practiced, as up milling will tend to delaminate the material.

DRILLING AND TAPPING

Paper and Fabric Grades

A standard high-speed drill with lips backed off to provide plenty of clearance is satisfactory for all thermoset grades. However, for long production runs and deep holes, carbide-tipped drills give the best performance.

Drills should be lifted from the work frequently to prevent binding and excessive heating. The feed should be light and uniform and the speed of the drill should be considerably in excess of that used for soft steel. With tungsten-carbide tips, speeds may be as high as 16,000 rpm. Where possible, the material being drilled should be backed up with scrap thermoset or other soft material to prevent chipping out.

In drilling thermosets parallel to laminations, extra care must be taken to prevent splitting. The material should be clamped in a vise or between plates and the drill should be lifted more frequently to remove chips.

Holes 3/4” and over may be drilled in the conventional manner using radial drill presses or the counter bore method in which a pilot hole is drilled first.

Drill size: Because of the nature of plastic material, the diameters of holes drilled in laminates are usually .002” under the drill size. Therefore, the drill selected should be at least .002” larger than the specified diameter of the hole. If the drill is being used dull, the hole
size may be an additional .002” undersize, or a total of .004” less than the diameter of the drill.

The recommendations for drilling also apply to tapping. Taps used for metal are also suitable for thermosets. Tapping heads or tapping machines may be used and for production work, collapsible taps are available in sizes over 1 ¼”.

Tap Size

In tapping thermosets, high-speed taps .002” oversize should be used.
The tap drill size should also be changed to .002” oversize to counteract the tendency of the drill to cut undersize. If the thread is to be used frequently, metal inserts should be used.

For threaded holes over 1/2”, it is often more desirable to chase the thread on a lathe using a motor-driven cutter mounted on the tool post.

Epoxy Glass Base Grades

When drilling glass base grades, a carbide drill should be used. The materials can be drilled dry with a good exhaust system to remove dust. A flood of water, or wash-soluble coolants, on the work and drill can be used when necessary to prevent overheating and dulling of drills. High speed drills, nitrate treated, can be used, but must be sharpened more often. Care should be taken when sharpening that the drill is cut back far enough to the original body diameter of drill. Spindle speed for these grades is 4800 rpm for 1/4” diameter drills.

The methods for tapping these materials are much the same as for tapping paper base laminated plastics. The abrasiveness may cause taps to cut very close to size, resulting in a tendency toward binding when backing out. Standard high speed steel taps can be used on short runs. For any sizeable quantity carbide taps should be used. Taps should be purchased oversize. Coolant can be used, but is not necessary if a good exhaust system is available.

THREADING

Paper and Fabric Grades

For threaded holes over 1/2”, it is often more desirable to chase the thread on a lathe, using a motor-driven cutter mounted on the tool post.

When cutting a 60° thread, it is always advisable to swing the compound reset on the lathe to a 30° angle. The tool is ground to cut on one side only.

For all other threads, standard methods are used with satisfactory results: the speed and feeds are similar to those used in threading soft steel.

Epoxy Glass Base Grades

External threads and internal threads can be cut on a lathe with a carbide-tipped tool, dry. Fine cuts should be taken to give best results. A coolant can be used, but is not necessary.

Antique Drill Press

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Can anyone tell me ANYTHING about this Hallidie Co. drill press? It came with a shop at a house I just bought, and I'm looking to sell or donate it to a museum/collector that will truly appreciate it! Everything works.
How much is something like this worth?
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Stepped boring bars

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Looking for a 1/4 min bore boring bar with 1" reach on a 3/8 shank thats 4" long. Haven't had any luck.
Made the first 250 parts by taking a harvey tool 1/4 endmill on a 3/8 shank and grinding a flute off but I have 1000 more parts and looking for a better solution.

Material is 316 stainless

Good source for Tombstones?

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Hello everyone,

I apologize if this made it to the wrong section. I couldn't find one for workholding, so I placed this thread here.

I'm relatively new to machining but have a beginner's education in MasterCam and have made a couple dozen job-shop type parts. We've got a few verticals (two Fadals and two Hurcos) that I have used, our Hurco BMC 4020 H/T being the favorite.

We recently purchased a Mori Seiki SH50 HMC with a linear pallet pool with the intent of being able to eventually tool up and do some higher-run parts. I'm still learning, however, and would like some advice. Everything is in good shape and after a real good cleaning, the machine looks pretty good for being 20 years old.

I don't have any tombstones for the pallets, however. I've never used an HMC before and don't know where to start with regards to finding tombstones at a decent price, if used ones are even available, what I might need to look for for my shop, etc. If we get a higher run part we would most likely build a tooling cost into the cost of the parts, but for right now I would like a couple basic tombstones so that I can run a few parts of my own and get used to the machine, fixturing it, running it, programming parts, etc. before I go try to sell a bunch of parts that I don't know how to machine.

Any help with regard to finding a couple decent tombstones would be great, and I apologize if I seem like a noob. I'm trying to acquire knowledge and learn quickly, so bear with me! Thanks in advance for your help.

Looking for a used lathe, needs to hold +/- .0001" on diameter

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I'm in the market for a used CNC lathe. It doesn't have to have 1,000,000 ipm rapids or 18 axes of live tooling. I need a lathe that can deliver when the print says +/- .0001" on diameter. I've got experience with Okuma LB lathes and am partial to finding one of those, but if someone knows of a different brand name that can deliver the same quality of cut, I'm all ears. Any advice from those who know?

Where the heck is the CMOS battery on this Centaur orbital tube welder?

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Got hold of an operations and maintenance manual for this unit and got it running fine, but it will not save weld schedules I program in (or the date and time), probably because the CMOS battery is shot, which would be fine, but I can't find it. I can pretty much see every circuit board in there, and I doubt the battery is the usual cr2032 style as this is a mid 80's to early 90's machine. I've seen a few other style batteries, like a stack of smaller button cells with shrink on them, but this one has got me so far. What other form factors should I be looking for? The manual says "two banks of U8 (32 Kbytes) are installed, U8 also has an integral, long life battery to prevent loss of data when system power is not applied" This is not some battery built on to a chip, is it?

tom

Got a lathe identification question

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I ran a lather some years back (10-12 years ago) that actually recorded your work and would write a program for you saving a bit of time on simple runs. Does anyone have a clue as to what brand (I swear it was a HAAS) machine does this or if it was a special controller? Any help would be appreciated and if this is not the proper sub forum I do apologize.

Doosan toolsetter

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We just took delivery of a new Doosan TT1800, we currently also have a Doosan Lynx approx. 1 year old. When touching tools using the presetter on the Lynx we can press the jog button and the axis will approach, touch the probe and back off automatically. On the TT1800 we have to hold the jog button depressed and it will contact the probe and stop, then we have to back it off manually with the jog button or handwheel. The Doosan tech that did the install didn't have an answer to why these 2 machines were different or how to change a parameter or keeprelay to match the Lynx.
Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
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