Cutting o.d.radius

December 27, 2013, 6:00 pm

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I am trying to cut a o.d radius for the first time.The tab is 7/8 on the end I need to take a finish cut on the radius .Thought I would start in the back and come around to the front.
Here is what I got so far.
(M0080.MIN)
N0001 ()
N0002 ( INC)
N0003 (REVISED ON 12/2013 RAT)
N0004 ( )
N0005 ()
N0006 ()
N0007 ()
N0008 ()
N0009 ()
N0010 G00 G90 Z20.
/N0011 X-10. Y20.
N0012 M01
NAT18 (3/8" CARBIDE END MILL)
N1800 M06 T18
N1801 G15 H05
N1802 G56 H18
N1803 M03 S1600
N1804 G00 X0 Y.375
N1805 Z.1 M08
N1806 G01 Z-.062 F25.
N1807 G41 X0 Y0 D18 F15.
N1808 G02 X.4375 Y-.4375 I-.4375
G02 X1.250 Y0 I0 J-1.250
N1818 G01 G40 Y-1.2500 F100.
N1819 G00 Z20. M09
N1820 X-10. Y20. M05
M19
N1821 M30

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tool library on knee mill

December 27, 2013, 8:37 pm

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I have a knee mill with centroid controls

I made and have the reference tool. I have the centroid referance tool length set to that tool's length touching a 123 block on top of my vice.

The day I entered the reference tool length value, I also entered three tools as well.

Since then I have moved my knee.

I now have some more tool holder with tools chucked up that I want to enter into my library.

Can anyone walk me through the logical steps, from powering on the controller/software to correctly adding to the library without redoing all my tools please.

Do I just part home the Z axis with one of the tools in the library already then just go in and measure the additional tools and add them?

I am new to tool libraries and may be over thinking this.

Mighty MV-40, a2100 hard drive image

December 28, 2013, 8:23 am

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I finally get this machine powered up, go to clone the hard drive to be safe and had the disk head crash in the process - just my luck. Drive is no longer readable or recognized on boot up.

On the off chance that anyone has one of these machines I could use a copy of the a2100 hard disk (image of the disk or will send you a hard drive to clone to). Thanks!

I see Matsuura are back in the U.S.!

December 31, 2013, 10:15 pm

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Looks like they have some pretty nifty products too.

Matsuura Machinery Corporation

If they are anywhere near as durable as my 1979 model they should find buyers even if their price is high.
I don't think they ever completely left, but it looks like they are intent on taking some high-end market share now.
It seems they were fairly popular in the 80's and that unless the control died a LOT of the old units are still in service.
My impression of the new models is that they are intended for big companies, not hobbyist or small time guys like me.
Despite my travails with the very obsolete control on my Matsuura I am fairly impressed with how well the iron has held up, if money were no object......

No relation to Matsuura, just an observation.

hard turning issue

January 1, 2014, 1:54 pm

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I am getting my butt kicked all over trying to hard turn an 8620 case hardened part. I don't know if its the lathe, the insert, the bar, or what but its pissing me off. It statrts with a 0.531 inch bore interrupted cut with about 0.005 material, necks down to 0.500/0.501, about 1.7 deep overall. I am running a sumitomo insert, although I tried a kennametal as well. ccmt2151 square insert on a 3/8 steel bar and the finish is not bad but it takes forever and a lot of offset adjustments to get anywhere. Ideally I'd like to find something I can run a couple dozen parts without much adjustment..... but running lathe max 4500 rpm and 1.0 ipm it is not working for crap so far.....

what have you hard turned successfully inside a hole?

1/4-20 Tap Blind Hole--Recommendation Needed

January 1, 2014, 3:20 pm

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I am tapping thousands of 1/4-20 blind holes in 1144 material. Currently I am using widia spiral flute taps and getting 500-750 holes per tap. I would like to get more, as I run somewhat unattended and don't like the tap breaking. They first of all chip some where on an edge and then you can hear them chirp just a little bit when backing out. I have been advised to try Balax carbide taps, but when I called them they really don't have one that size and recommended a forming tap. I am not super enthused about a forming tap. I do use them on aluminum, but would prefer a cutting tap yet. I am willing to try a carbide tap. Any body have any ideas for some really good taps? thanks

Okuma Mill ES V4020 Tool Change

January 1, 2014, 5:21 pm

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I run a Okuma mill with a OSP 10M controller. It has a umbrella tool changer. All the programs are written with a G111 T whatever at the start of each tool.
The G111 is as follows.
OTCHK
IF [PT EQ VTLCN] NEND
T= PT M6
NEND RTS
My problem is if I change the G111 to a M6 I always get a wrong T command fault.
Is there a way to disable the G111? Not sure why I need it. Also on that mill if I call up a empty tool pocket it will not complete the tool change. Is there a parameter I can change to call up a empty toll pocket?

DIN 6499 collets

January 2, 2014, 7:00 am

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Need to confirm that DIN 6499 is a standard ER collet. Purchasing a live tool tapping head for a Mazak SQT-15M that specifies DIN 6499 collets, Google searches say yes but just want to verify its correct or see if anyone has any additional input.

I would have thought that it would be a square drive style collet specific for gripping taps.

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New to Okuma LT need help with alarm

January 2, 2014, 11:27 am

≫ Next: Z axis lost its repeatability???

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I'm trying to do a part transfer with the sub spindle

Before the transfer my B turret is cutting in the sub spindle and the A turret is cutting in the main spindle.

I need to make my B turret go back to a main spindle mode (G140) so that my A turret can control the W axis.

--when I put G140 in the B side program I get an alarm that says "Change timing g140/g141/g142

If I don't put the g140 in then it alarms on the a side at the first w-move.

Any help with how to put the Lower/b turret into main spindle mode would be very helpful.

I think it's a sync or timing thing but I'm stuck

Thanks
Nick

Z axis lost its repeatability???

January 2, 2014, 2:22 pm

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Hello all!

We have a 1996 vintage Bridgeport Torq Cut -22 with DX32 control. It runs almost every day for about 4-8 hrs depending upon work load.

This afternoon the Z Axis started acting crazy. It jumped +.010 . I never saw that before, I checked all the tools, looked for chips in the quill, etc.

Then I reseat the TLO for each tool (only two) The part was the correct height again. The PRG is a face and deburr.

However the second part was wrong again, this time the Z went up by about +.006.

BTW, both tools moved, not just one. My deburr is still the correct size but the part got bigger.

Any ideas, encoder?

Machine is not throwing an error. The following error is set to .050

Thanks,
WI

ID Gripping with soft jaws in a Kurt 6 in Vise - opinion

January 2, 2014, 3:15 pm

≫ Next: Full Service Machine shop supplier needed around Morrisville, NC

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Not sure how many of you guys do this.

Typically, I only hold parts on the OD when I bore soft jaws in the mill using my Kurt 6in Vise.

Is it good practice to do this? I need to clamp a part 6.7in ID to mill top features.

I dont really want to purchase Pie jaws just for this job. And I can make soft jaws for the vise very quickly.

Any Help/opinion is greatly appreciated.

Full Service Machine shop supplier needed around Morrisville, NC

January 2, 2014, 4:42 pm

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Later this month I'm heading to a company in Morrisville, NC to install a Tormach...I'm looking for a full service supplier in the area...I'm sitting on a pretty good PO for tooling and will not use MSC...This company (to my surpize) has no machines on locating and have asked me to find them a locale company...

Also any good seafood places around there you might recommend...

New to CNC

January 2, 2014, 5:28 pm

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Hello,

Thanks for taking the time to read my post!

I am writing because I am new to CNC and I have a few questions that I'm sure more experienced machinists can help me with.

I have been researching for the past few months for a CNC mill on this and various other sites and I have decided to buy a tormcach PCNC 1100. I have been watching youtube videos and trying to read everything I can about it. I have had a 3D printer and I currently have a CNC laser cutter, but I have very little milling experience. I work as a mechanical engineer in the defense industry and I work directly with machinists almost daily, but I want to learn more about it as well as build some prototypes and do some small production runs.

The questions I have are:

Is the tormach the right machine for my purposes, keeping in mind I want high quality parts?

I live in an apartment in Los Angeles (santa monica area), any ideas for where to put it?
I considered renting a small private garage from someone, as well as renting a small area inside a shop near where I live. I don't want to spend more that $300/mo to store it, also wondering if noise will be an issue if I rent the garage (air compressor etc)

I would eventually like to have a small shop of my own with other equipment, but this is all I can afford for now.

I consider advice from wiser/experience individuals very valuable, so thanks!

Greg

What do you think of programming service offered by Bobcad?

January 2, 2014, 5:58 pm

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I got this in an email today...



Just wondering what others think of this. Outsourcing programming has popped up a few times here and there... seems to be mixed reviews.

The argument on one side seems to be that the programmer doesn't have the overhead of a full shop, therefore, lots of money to be made. On the other, the machinist is totally relying on the programmer's post.

Throw Bobcad's history of overselling and under delivery into the mix, and I wonder what the result will be. Given that the most recent versions seem to be much more capable, whaddya think? Will this be a cash cow for them or will the variety of controls out there end up making it fizzle?

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Setting up the Fanuc 6T control.

January 2, 2014, 7:23 pm

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I recently had a question from a shop about setting up the G50 X and Z on a Mori-Seiki with the 6T.
As all of you know, Mori makes some really good sized long machines.
My favorite is the SL7, this one had 60 inches length.
The question was for a simple way to shift the G50 in Z closer to the part for chucking operations.
Here is what I wrote back to him, let me know if you have any better ideas.

Darin:
Here is a shortcut to reduce a little cycle time
Figure out the G50 as you see in my Lathe1 DVD.
Then, at the end of the program, following the M30, put in a incremental dimension, G0 W- , then a U- dimension in the next block.
It looks like this:
M30
G0 W-
U-
M30
You should now be a reasonable distance from the part to save on rapid time, your G50 X and Z in the program will reflect this.
First thing after starting the machine, search down to M30, then let the machine reset itself.

You only have to do this once a day, or again if you shut the machine down.
Call me if not clear.
Heinz at 614-888-8466, doccnc.com

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Amada HA-250 - Anyone have Manuals???

January 3, 2014, 7:32 am

≫ Next: Vacuum table seal material?

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I picked up an Amada HA-250 auto saw the other day, 1991 vintage - a friend is selling off a shop for a widow, and I thought I'd lend a hand and pass along a few bucks. Anyway, out of all of the old machinery, I think this was the only one that did not have any documentation. There are some old Bendix controlled machines with the documents, but not this lowly saw!!!

Anyway, an operator's manual and parts manual would be handy is anyone has one they could share.

Here's a photo of the control:


Steve

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Vacuum table seal material?

January 3, 2014, 8:40 am

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Getting my vacuum table built soon, and placing an order to mcmaster carr so I was looking for some advise as to what to get. I was going to use o-ring cord but did some research (which I cannot seem to find now) and that was frowned upon. Any part numbers you guys can share?

thanks!

Dynapath Delta 20 Conversational Programming Question

January 3, 2014, 10:40 am

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Gentlemen,

I am having a problem with the subroutine conversational program in my Delta 20 controller.

After calling up a 7 for subroutine, I input f30 and l49 for first and last block and am getting a "execute error" message. When I looked up "execute error" in the manual it points toward a bad format. I followed that block with a 9 for end program but no help. When I hit the "run" button on the control, the program runs fine. It just won't run the machine. Anybody else had this problem?

For what it's worth, I am widening a slot and trying to drop the cutter down and repeat the sequence to widen the slot on a deeper plane without having to code all the moves. It looks pretty straight forward but I must be missing something.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Big B

Question on a Komo CNC Router

January 3, 2014, 11:54 am

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Hey guys, first time posting and it is a bit of a doozy.

We have a Komo VR 510 fusion CNC Router with Dual Heads from 2007 with the optional automatic tool touch probe. This probe measures the tool offset for the Master Head spindle, but not the Slave. So, thinking it was a settings issue, we hit the documentation, but could not find anything. Then we contacted Komo, but they informed us that the tool offset for the Slave head spindle, and the mismatch between the two had to be measured by hand using gauge blocks.

From what we have been able to observe about the machine’s hardware, the second spindle can reach the touch probe as if it was designed to do so. Furthermore, the tool information table can be programed to store the information for all the heads, and we have to documentation to perform that. So, the decision to either modify the current measurement program (the stock one from Komo) or make a new one has been made.

Which brings me to my questions:

Has any one done this before on the same model or similar machine?
Got any tips or ideas?

Thanks!
(Also, if this is in the wrong forum section, let me know)

Fanuc AC servo trouble

January 3, 2014, 12:12 pm

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I purchased a makino rmc 55 from a company that bought it in 1992 for a high volume job. The job got cancelled and the machine sat on the floor until it got pushed to the back corner and forgot about. the mill sat untouched for around 7 years. I got it home and hooked it up. everything powered up and the last program was still loaded in the control. the x and y servos ran smooth but when i tried the z it would rotate about 90 deg then start to shake and vibrate until it caused a servo overload alarm. i pulled the servo to see if the ball screw had frozen but everything on the machine was loose and working fine. with the servo out it does the same thing. rotate it back and forth 90 deg but past that and it starts to vibrate and jump until it throws an alarm. the control is a fanuc om and the servo is a 10s. i also checked to make sure the brake was releasing and it seems to be. If i rotate the servo at highspeed using the handwheels it will turn 360 deg but it jumps twice every rotation. Is this a bad servo? or could it be something else like a bad feed wire or missing parameter? If someone has run into this before or could give me an idea of what to look for it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance to anyone that takes the time to read my trouble and tries to help.